Doing justice to juniors - junior fashion - Apparel Merchandising

Discount Store News, Oct 17, 1994

There will always be a place on the mass market floor for basic five-pocket jeans and solid T-shirts. But where does this leave juniors customers who demand more style?

The juniors customer is young, and very concerned about looking cool. To reel her in, retailers are using key novelty items in trend-right colors and silhouettes as bait. They are also finding they must maintain a constant flow of fresh and exciting merchandise to please her.

"The young customer shops frequently and is always on the lookout for new fashion trends," reports Gregory H. Blow, director of fashion merchandising and product development for O'Fallon, Mo.-based Venture Stores. "We see a major shift happening in the shape and attitude of young clothes,"

Neil Buckley, divisional merchandise manager of women's apparel, accessories, intimate and jewelry for Franklin, Mass.-based Stuarts, says that chain's juniors customer fits much the same profile. "She is young, she wants to be in touch and she wants to wear 'what's happening' looks."

In the past, discounters may have understood the needs of the trend-conscious consumer, but they didn't do much with their selling floor displays to attract her because they were concentrating on more mature women.

But things are starting to change as mass merchants realize that their futures may depend on attracting younger customers.

As stores carry more non-apparel items that the young, stylewise consumer wants--CDs, electronic equipment and makeup, for instance--they are better positioned to gain her clothing business as well.

Many discounters still don't segment juniors into its own department. But merchandisers are using the goods to try and create hip enclaves.

To a large extent, this puts the pressure on manufacturers.

The days of producing cookie cutter garments are all but gone; to be a viable player in mass market items today, manufacturers must transcend the price barrier and face the fashion issue.

Vendors such as New York-based Miss Juli Apparel Inc. have planted themselves right in the thick of things by offering knit, denim and cotton/Lycra related separates in an expanse of prints and solids that retail for about $12.99.

Miss Juli accounts executive Lisa Coopersmith, who sells the line to specialty chains such as Merry Go Round and discounters including Caldor and Venture, says today's juniors customer is more savvy than ever. "She knows all about trends," contends Coopersmith. "She wants to look like the girls she sees on Beverly Hills 90210 and Melrose Place, but may not have the money to buy those Betsey Johnson outfits."

To keep items current and exciting, manufacturers are upgrading the taste level and breadth of their assortments. Tops and bottoms are being touched with value-added extras such as collar interest, embroidery and top stitching. Texture figures prominently for spring in the form of brushed Lycra, thermal knits and jaspe.

Silhouettes are becoming more cutting-edge, borrowing design inspiration from better markets. Blow says shrunken shirts and midriff-baring tops will be key shapes at Venture. "Cropped dressing is very important right now," he notes. Little tops are also featured at Target. Tie-dye short-and long-sleeve baby T-shirts in pink and blue retail at the store for $14.99 to $16.99.

No juniors department is complete these days without the bodysuit. Target sells these under the Sostanza private label in a spectrum of colors for $8.88. Sears stocks horizontal stripe and solid styles from Eber, Betty Blue, Earthquake and Mainframe, priced under $20.

Items such as these are the cornerstone of the layered look, giving the young customer a smart and economical avenue through which to create a number of looks with a few interchangeable pieces.

At Sears, coordination is made simple. Tops are merchandised with vests, such as the quilted silk model from Croquet Club, the fringe-bottom look from No Barrier and the cotton flannel cropped style with zipper accents from Pinky.

Target offers silk menswear-style vests in paisley, stripes and patchwork under the private labels Sostanza, One Resource and Honors for $12.99.

Vests are also prevalent at off-pricers, where the junior/contemporary mix is highly item-driven. At Marshalls in Westbury, N.Y., styles include the multicolored fabric-puff vest from A.J. ($14.99), and tailored, oversized and embellished silhouettes from One Step Up, At Last and Fashion Passport.

Denim in all shapes and sizes is also spurring juniors sales. "Anything denim and anything that works with denim is performing well," says Blow of Venture. Coopersmith of Miss Juli agrees, saying, "Volume-priced denim is at its height right now". Miss Juli has profited from denim separates since it introduced the classification for spring '94. The '95 collection is composed of fitted vests in black or stonewashed indigo, short A-line skirts, skooters (skirt in front, shorts in back) and fitted dresses with pockets.

Embellished denim in stretch fabrications takes center stage at many mass merchants, including Stuarts and Hills. Speed Control, Pure Jeans and Anti-Basic by Daily Jeans have performed well at Stuarts, says Buckley.