Girls' takes fashion … forward - AM

Discount Store News, Oct 16, 1995

Rent out some storage space for girls' basics--the spring lineup for sizes 4 to 6X has fashion written all over it.

"After so many seasons of basics, basics. basics. it's exciting to see the start of a true fashion cycle." says Karen Cotton, divisional merchandise manager of childrenswear at Braintree, Mass.-based Bradlees. "Our fashions-to-basics ratio will change dramatically for spring. That's a thrill, but it's also risky. If we don't plan for the right kind of fashion, we're in trouble."

Nevertheless, the industry is for the most part downplaying what used to be considered safe bets, including leggings, shorts and plain T-shirts, in favor of fashion denim, textured natural and synthetic-fabric tops and bottoms and the broad use of detailing. The color palette runs the gamut from the most gentle pastels to clear mid-tones to shocking, almost-neon shades.

"We have had an inordinate amount of success with 4 to 6X denim, rayon and knit looks that are highly influenced by big-girls' looks," reports Barry Levine, sales manager at New York-based Baron Group. "I've had to cut down on my shorts program and put more energy into looks like denim skooters and fabric-mixed dresses." The spring line has been ordered by Ames and Caldor, as well as by Hamrick's, a discounter with stores in the Carolinas. Levine also has talks scheduled with Wal-Mart, Target and Kmart.

"Denim" and "denim-related" have ceased to be mere buzzwords in girlswear, they have become the password retailers and manufacturers need to know in order to unlock sales doors--as long as they're styled with a fashion touch.

The word from New York-based Justin Allen Kids, a company that holds the girls' sportswear license from Chic, is that denim rules for spring. "Denim is very important," asserts sales manager Dave Appleby. "I have to admit we were kind of nervous--as most of the industry was--looking ahead to spring. The apparel market has been going through some really tough times lately. But we got a lot of earlier-than-usual bookings on denim skooteralls and shortalls, and that has people excited that spring will be the beginning of a turnaround." Justin Allen sells to such discounters as Caldor, Bradlees, Hills and Venture.

Denim dresses will be a key spring item at O'Fallon, Mo.-based Venture. "Absolutely, this is the time for fashion," says Christine Jasso, buyer for girls' 4 to 14 dresses and bottoms. "Basics have slacked off, and they're being replaced by styles like denim dresses in both short and long silhouettes. Jumper styles will also be important."

Bradlees' Cotton says all-denim and denim/rayon dresses at price points of up to $30 sold well for Back-to-School. She expects dresses at similar prices to move as briskly for spring. "Yes, $30 is a pretty high point to pay for a girls' casual dress in the mass market, but the same type are out there in the department stores selling for as high as $40. The customers are looking for something different. If they see something new a exciting in the mass market--something their kids don't already have in their closets--they will spend that extra money." Bradlees stocks denim dresses from Fame Clothing Co., S.W.A.T., Candy Kiss and W.H. Next, a label that Cotton recently added to the assortment.

Venture will also retail spring denim dresses for as high as $29.99. "That is a big step up for Venture," says Jasso. "We've found that we can sell dresses at that price point because they're new."

Rayon dresses in short- and long-slip silhouettes, as well as short-sleeved styles in long silhouettes, are showing hints of denim. "Rayon dresses with vests are huge, especially floral styles on dark grounds," says Jasso, noting that Venture stocks dresses from such vendors as Beebas and Miss Juli.

Jumper looks are also hot. Styles that marry bandanna-print bottoms and denim overall tops, as well as denim pockets and fringe treatments, are being shown at Justin Allen.

Skooters, skooteralls and shortalls have come to replace the basic, five-pocket denim short--in many cases as the bottom of choice for warm weather. Venture has had success with looks from Public Clothing Company and Miss Juli.

Detailed denim is key. "Embroideries and trims have become more important than they were in past years," says Cotton, noting that floral and bear embroideries and grosgrain, plaid and ric-rac trims will adorn the looks at Bradlees. There is still a great demand for manufacturers "to add a touch of sweetness" to the 4 to 6X offerings within certain retail circles, contends Justin Allen designer Laura Johnson. Therefore, the Chic Girls line is laced with embroidery and accents like fashion pockets and rosettes.

Yet fashion denim is also taking direction from the more forward juniors market. Ticking stripes, metal hardware and exposed labels are details that exemplify the look.

The Speed Control division of Baron Group is offering skooteralls featuring fabric mixing. "My strength right now lies in the combination of denim and other materials like printed rayon and cotton gauze," says Levine.