Sport bras winning: sport bras account for 15 percent to 20 percent of discounters' bra sales

Discount Store News, Oct 20, 1997

Expanded selections coupled with more sophisticated display techniques and point-of-purchase information have fueled the growth of sport bras as manufacturers and retailers maximize attempts to accentuate the classification on the selling floor.

Sport bras account for 15 percent to 20 percent of discounters" bra sales, and chains ranging from Caldor and Kmart to Venture and ShopKo report year-to-date sales gains as high as 15 percent over a strong 1996. These figures are generally seen as incremental to the sport bra businesses that have developed in bodywear departments.

Consumers have pushed sport bra sales in part because women now perceive discount stores, after several seasons of retail emphasis, as headquarters locations for the classification.

Also boosting volume has been a Bestform point-of-purchase campaign--the company has been an industry leader in marketing sport bras to mass merchants--that has helped shoppers understand the differences in bra attributes.

Bestform initiated new tags and displays that explain the differences in support between models and has segmented its lines accordingly. Low-impact bras are marketed and designed for walking, golf or weight training; moderate-impact for aerobics, tennis and cycling; and high performance for aerobics and running.

"The focus of the sport bra category this year has been function. The consumer wants to know what the bra can do for her," says Lynda Boyd, merchandise manager for lingerie at Kmart. "Women can now be confident they are purchasing the right product for their needs."

Kmart, as well as Caldor, uses the Bestform signage plus some of its own materials in stores. "The [POP] campaign received a tremendous response at retail," Boyd says. "Women were educated on the level of support they need based on the type of activity they are involved with."

In the past, adds Pat Lager, vice president of merchandising and sales for Bestform, people didn't know what the right item was to buy. With the three levels, customers can pick what best suits them. The acceptance of the light support item reflects the fact that some women just prefer sport-style bras--even if just for comfort, she adds. "These bras are just more comfortable. Obviously, not everyone is using them for sports."

"When you look at the numbers, you know it isn't just for exercise. It is comfort, too," agrees Caldor buyer Susan Epstein.

Multiple products also allow for a multiple pricing structure similar to the approach taken in jeans, where each fit commands a different ticket.

Caldor prices Bestform's product at two for $12 for low-level support; two for $14, moderate support; and two for $16 for the highest level of support.

Although Epstein thinks the approach boosted sales, she believes the category hasn't yet maxed out. "We can do even more in-store and with advertising. We were happy with results, but we're planning for even higher sales," she says.

As might be expected, the multi-level approach to the support levels of bras for various functions is being duplicated by private label programs.

Function, while a primary draw in sport bras, isn't the classification's only allure. Fashion, obviously, is also important in garnering customer support.

Kmart has extended its mix to include styles with zippers as design features, underwire and bra hooks. New fabrications are being featured such as ribbed and jersey materials.

Nancy Rickwartz, a buyer for Venture, thinks the next step will be more high-performance, ultrasensor-mesh bras as well as blends of polyester crepe for wicking moisture away.

"There will be advanced fabrics to enhance performance," Boyd says. Up-market suppliers such as Champion, Patagonia and Danskin are already utilizing features such as front zipper closures, double layered, molded cups for high performance, hydrasuede fabrication and DuPont CoolMax (which wicks away perspiration).

Color can't be overlooked, Lager adds. Although basic whites and grays lead sales, cool tones, such as lilacs, purples and greens, will be injected into the mix for spring 1998. She says consumers have already shown an adventurous side in exercise bras, with animal prints selling well in 1997.

"Color is necessary to stop the area from becoming deadly. Women do like to try color," Epstein says. The jury is still out on new reversible styles. She adds that color, plus wall presentations, spurred business.

"The wall really makes them more exciting, especially if you add color," Epstein says.

"Kmart has had tremendous success merchandising the category on a wall," Boyd confirms.

Mirroring the situation in sportswear, marketers are responding to a growing demand for special larger sizes. Bestform is rolling out an entire new line of full-figure options under the Exquisite Form brand in January. Sizes will start at 36 and go up to 44 in C, D, and DD cup sizes. Price points range from $20 to $24, a much higher ring than the $7.99 to $11.99 ticket of conventional fit offerings.

Venture's Rickwartz applauds the full-figure versions. "We know we have a customer for those products."