Plus sizes show their style; putting an end to the value/size tradeoff

Discount Store News, Nov 7, 1994

NATIONWIDE DSN REPORT -- Full-figured shoppers who may have felt they were paying more for less-than-fashionable apparel in the past have responded to new attention to this booming category by discounters. The result is 34% growth in plus-size volume over the past five years, compared to 16% growth for women's apparel overall.

Mark Minsky, senior vp, gmm soft lines at Caldor, Norwalk, Conn., said of the category, "The margins are very good, in comparison to what plus is displacing." He pointed to a distinct difference in men's wear. Caldor has no big & tall men's department today and the reason is simple. "It won't do more business per rack than what it has to displace."

Bob Greenwald, senior vp, gmm for soft lines at Jamesway, Secaucus, N.J., asserted that not only are margins good in plus sizes, but "the customers are loyal." That loyalty is fueling the expansion of Jamesway's plus-size area. "In ladies it will be 15%," Greenwald said, "mainly in casual wear: knit tops and bottoms, denim-driven looks."

Jamesway seeks to optimize plus sales by better merchandising; Greenwald said increased space in advertising circulars is a factor, while on the floor the chain features a more defined plus-size area.

Above all, Greenwald said, "It's the look" that is merchandised. "The size doesn't change the customer's desire to look good."

Bob Luehrs, president of the jeans label Chic, agreed, pointing out that discount stores began taking more plus-size share from department and specialty stores around 1990. "Now they're really getting a tremendous share of it," he said, adding that when his company launched plus sizes in the late 1970s, "the mass merchants for the most part had womens' plus-size jeans and pants near the missy department. The plus-size woman found she had to pay higher prices; the feeling was this was a penalty. We priced them at the same price as missy and junior; we worked on a slimmer margin. We agreed with the consumer."

"We're showing more well-rounded assortments," said Caldor's Minsky. "Two or three different styles in knits, three or four in sweaters, several in bottoms, and a lot more space, additional signing, advertising, everything to support them."

Joe Irwin, president of the knit apparel division of activewear manufacturer Russell, predicted that trend will continue. "If sales do keep growing, you'll see still more focus, more color, wider assortments. For instance, if a retailer today offers, in a basic knit activewear spring program five to eight silhouettes, they might choose two or three in plus. I think you'll see those choices in plus widen."

Russell's Irwin suggested increased space for plus sizes has come in part from space formerly given to smaller sizes and petites. "For size small in knit tops, fleece and T's," Irwin observed, "turns had slowed down; where it used to be eight or 10, it is three or four. They just weren't selling that many."

Roger Gordon, vp sales for women's at Gitano, said discount retailers have definitely devoted "much, much better real estate" to women's plus sizes. "Some are stealing from hard lines, others are cannibalizing soft line categories--not the missy area, but maybe fringe apparel areas."

The plus-sizes area at Caldor is adjacent to dresses, a classification that is trending up. Space has likely been found, as at other regional chains emphasizing apparel, by downsizing such hard lines as paint, automotive and hardware. The room is needed to accommodate the full commitment plus sizes have earned.

That commitment extends through such features as lifestyle photography and hangtags. "For the plus-size shopper, we show a vision that's aspirational," said Pam Breeman, vp marketing at Gitano, "but realistic and relevant to her--not the 5'8", 100-lb. model."

Chic's Luehrs summed up, "Ten years ago plus sizes were no more than 5% of our business. Today, plus-sizes in girls, junior's and missy is about 12%."

How far will it grow? Luehrs answered with his own question: "How many donuts are women going to eat?" No matter how many, the category will remain trend-oriented, not commodity-based. "Women who are full-figured," Luehrs said, "don't necessarily dress conservatively."