Fashion keeps control and full-figure intimates flying - sales of women's intimate apparel at discount retailers

Discount Store News, Nov 18, 1996

NATIONWIDE DSN REPORT - Sales of intimate apparel are ahead of apparel growth as a whole, say discounters, and plus-size intimates are leading the way. Body-shaping products are on the upswing as well, although the progress is not as easy for mass merchants in this subcategory.

This distinction is clear at Hills Stores, for instance, where fuller-figure goods have won a permanent position on the corner of the department in recognition of a superior contribution to turn and margin, but shapewear is still most effective at lower price points and a less aggressive presentation.

"It becomes evolution, not revolution; it's a long haul to communicate the performance aspects" of higher-priced control intimates, said Larry Angst, vp of ladies' apparel and accessories at Hills.

In contrast, Hills' commitment to adding fashion and color to plus-size bras and panties, and giving the goods prime real estate, has paid off in double-digit increases two years running.

"We've seen a much quicker return on fashion components in fuller-figure," Angst said.

At Venture Stores, divisional vp for intimates Bernie Wise agreed that control has been a tougher sell, but noted that the chain's powerful upgrading of presentations one year ago have made the control segment one of the strongest apparel businesses at Venture. "In every store, we have at least a side or back wall," he said, "and in some stores we have a whole feature wall. We're a destination." In control, the chain is building toward the same kind of increases that have seen double-digit increases for at least four years in plus-size bras and panties, which have been rewarded with 30% more floor space.

To get the feature/benefit message of control garments to the customer, discounters rely on both vendor point-of-sale signage, such as extra hang tags, and on advertising. "We advertise control every five to six weeks, either as a brand offer or in an overall sale," Wise said.

Key branded resources for the category include Just My Size, Luvable, Bestform and Vassarette in fashionable plus sizes, with the addition of Cupid in control goods. While each may offer some POS graphics, Celia Clancy, senior vp, gmm for women's apparel at Bradlees, said she sees a need for the retailer to develop its own materials for an uncluttered, consistent presentation in-store.

Clancy indicates that both plus-size and control foundations have performed ahead of the curve at Bradlees. While the chain has emphasized both businesses in the past, 1996 saw plenty of more fashionable inventory, taking the trade to a new level.

"We've always had girdles and control briefs," she said, "but we're adding fashion twists and trims even into the basics." Bradlees and Venture have also added the fashion by stocking new items like T-shirt bras and seamless-look Friday bras by resources such as Fruit of the Loom's Casual Solutions line.

With prices in the range of $20 to $25 for some garments in the control area, discounters are indeed securing more crossover business from shoppers who ordinarily rely on department stores for their apparel needs. This only makes fashionable fuller sizes and control goods ever more vital segments of the women's categories.