Pondering fashions for fall - men's clothing - Apparel Merchandising

Discount Store News, Feb 20, 1995 by James Mammarella

In the future, archaeologists seeking clues about 1995 Man will be tempted to conclude that Americans were on one big wilderness hike.

Sifting through layers of thermal shirts, digging down past denim, fleece and flannel, they will envision whole civilizations jammed with healthy red cheeked hordes who must have spent their days chopping wood, their nights swapping tales around a crackling campfire.

The only open question is whether they will unearth a smoother side to this mass of rugged individuals: a side whose sensibility and self image could only be assuaged by sporting a less rumpled appearance. We know today that these 22nd-century scientists could disinter wrinkle-resistant slacks and tops, no doubt still smooth after centuries of compression under mountains of rubble. But will these relics be as widespread a phenomenon as waffle-weave henleys?

Only time will tell. Time, and the choices of mass merchants. Most discounters rely on items to drive incremental apparel sales; predicting consumer appeal with accuracy makes or breaks the season.

For fall '95, will it be a reverse fleece pullover with Nordic print and a hood - or a zipper-front polar fleece jacket with tartan accents? Will wrinkle-free sport shirts provide gross margin bounce - or will the best bet be ribbed mock turtlenecks? Apparel buying, like history, depends on perspective.

As might be expected, precedent will in large part determine the future. According to Bob Smekal, divisional merchandise manager, menswear at Ames, a selection of items similar to those that sold well in 1994 will carry the day for fall 1995. Variations may include more quilted looks in flannel, and twill tops with thermal or flannel linings.

At Bradlees, James Sparks, vice president and general merchandise manager for soft lines, says pieced and pigment dyed goods will be characteristic of some fast-moving items for fall '95. Texture still carries much power, he notes. "You may see pieced thermals, quilted denim, reversed fleece, ribbed turtlenecks, ribbed polos in Reno wool."

This discounter may also highlight such potential items as "mixed media wovens," featuring denim details on flannel, or a Tommy Hilfiger influence such as a corduroy collar on a woven shirt.

Paul Winter, vice president of merchandising for Faded Glory, says that while outerwear itself suffered in 1994, the outerwear look in tops will get bigger. In terms of color, he says, "Look for a lot of muted colors in the plaids. Ethnic or Indian themes will be important." Winter also champions denim tops; he says they fit in best with the utility or carpenter jeans and cargo pocket slacks, an item "that did better in the discount stores than in department stores."

A likely commodity-as-item repeater, says Sheila Terry, divisional merchandise manager for menswear at buying office The Doneger Group, is "turtlenecks and mock turtlenecks; they did better than expected in 1994 at some chains, including Kmart and Montgomery Ward."

Looking for some of 1994's wouldbe performers to turn into top-flight items for 1995. Terry says Polar Fleece could grow much stronger. Touted as up and coming in jacket and pullover silhouettes, she says, the material has been difficult to move because "the patterns are too bold and the price is too high. I see bringing it down to more traditional men's patterns: open bottoms, shirts with a full button front - as opposed to the banded bottom and zip neck."

On the other hand, she says a departure from basic looks may work better in traditional sweatshirt-style fleece.

"You have to take the price-driven basic fleece and take it to the next level: printed, pigment-dyed. Maybe go into more textured and reverse looks, more fashion fleece." She admits this must all be done against the backdrop of competitive pricing. In woven tops, she sees texture ruling, from brushed looks to "waffle weaves, popcorns and seed stitched."

And, future archaeologists, take note: vests will be back. The Horizon Group's Milton Hickman, senior vice president and general manager, says the Reed st. James Loafer vests will be styled to go well with casual pants or jeans. In poly/wool or poly/rayon blends, the looks for fall '95 will feature such patterns as hounds tooth checks and tattersalls in brown and blue tones.

Turning vests into hot items in 1994 was a goal of Mark Minsky, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of soft lines at Caldor. The 164-store East Coast chain put display power behind the selection, pairing vests with woven and knit shirts on focal walls. The results revealed that leather and suede vests could move, while solid color sweater vests were the strongest.

Some chains encountered less success with the vest silhouette. The Doneger Group's Terry suggests the fisherman or "rugged photographer" style may have suffered from being too fashion-forward and carrying a lower perceived value relative to other varieties.

"The price on leather and suede vests has really been competitive," she points out, "but not so in these, nor in the quilted nylon types."