Off-pricers dress up men's accessories mix - off-price stores

Discount Store News, Feb 19, 1996 by James Mammarella

NATIONWIDE DSN REPORT -- Stale sales of apparel are the rule, but some categories of men's accessories are flourishing as consumers seek to show more style while spending less. Off-price apparel chains are making the most of this flip-side business by seeking better quality goods, using novelty prints and licensed designs, and through better in-store presentations.

Accessories with good turn in the current market include neckties, silk and knit boxers, suspenders and belts, as well as some loungewear items. Ties and boxers lead the way, with prices ranging from $7 to $20 and $10 to $15 in most chains, respectively.

Among key novelty themes are golf, pigs, nostalgia and American flag graphics. Men's tailored off-pricers like The Men's Wearhouse, Syms and Today's Man, as well as family off-pricers like Ross Stores, T.J. Maxx and Marshalls typically show a mix of these prints and licensed-character graphics from Looney Tunes to Disney properties.

"We were amazed at the strength last year of the cartoon business in boxers and ties," said Juli Weltsch, vp of licensing for Bolero USA, which supplies Looney Tunes and Winnie the Pooh, as well as its own Addiction line. It will launch Mickey Unlimited this fall.

Whether woven with restraint into neat prints or shown in all-out lurid colors over jacquard, the Looney Tunes characters have the biggest head of steam up in most collections.

Virginia-based off-pricer S&K Famous Brands was pleased enough last year with a 20store test of Looney Tunes shops in its outlet division to have rolled it out in 40 units, with another 20 likely to join the program this year.

Besides the standard pop prints, Target Stores provides plenty of space in the mix for on-trend looks in its house brands Merona, Greatland and Honors.

Besides novelties and character influences, the presence of designer prints is also being felt. In ties, Adolfo and Albert Nipon, two divisions of Castle Neckwear, are carried by Burlington Coat Factory, T.J. Maxx, Marshalls, The Men's Wearhouse, Syms and other chains.

"My customers are going after department store shoppers," said Jay Kantor, president of Albert Nipon/Castle Neckwear. "This is where the revolution is."

Kantor asserts that with the shift away from price toward making more powerful statements and trading up in quality, retailers gain the full attention of vendors.

Among the non-novelty prints, the chains seem to favor solid satin ties. "Some buyers," he said, "have moved away from the little neats to the panels."

A shift in boxers is in the process, with silks giving up some ground to knits. Weltsch remarked that knit boxers have been driven in part by exposed elastic waist bands that feature complementary graphics. Weltsch estimated that her market consists of a 60/40 mix of silk-to-knit boxers.

Beyond the fair level of business in ties and boxers, there have been a few surprises.

"It really shocked us that our suspender business was as big as our belt business last year," said Eric Lane, chief merchandising officer at The Men's Wearhouse.

One of the most trend-specific accessories today is the button cover for banded-collar shirts. The small, silvery or pearly cover not only lends a touch of sartorial sizzle to the center collar button, it fetches a handsome return for the retailer, who can charge as much as $10 for each splendid slug.

Syms has found that designer watches consistent with the apparel brand names carried by the chain score good sell-through. Ron Zindman, vp, gmm, said that Syms has used an 8-ft. run of watches on a display counter during the past two Holidays. Sunglasses, merchandised as impulse items near the checkout area, have also done well in names consistent with apparel brands.

The Men's Wearhouse has taken one of the more-aggressive approaches to selling accessories, with its stacking technique employed by the fitting rooms.

A customer stepping out to admire a suit in the tailoring mirror is also presented with a table covered by coordinated ties, belts, socks and five shirts.

"We work like elves while the customer is in the fitting room," Lane said. "More than a single suit or sport coat, we want to sell the total concept."

Loungewear is one category that could demonstrate a good return, although it tends to skew toward a higher price range than most accessories. Ross Stores, for instance, last year tested items including flannel, cotton and silk robes, shorts, bottoms and big daddy shirts, ranging from $10 to $30 for a Perry Ellis silk top.

However, if customers show a continued lack of excitement with apparel in general, off-pricers seeking to offer greater fashion value will certainly plumb a wider scope of accessories in the coming year.