Fashion runs - hosiery - Special Supplement: AM Apparel Merchandising

Discount Store News, March 1, 1993

As the lingerie department goes, hosiery is likely to follow.

Fashion is now a integral part of the lingerie section, and a similar injection of fashion is beginning to show up in the hosiery area. Now, the fashion additions are only part of the story. Expanded private-label programs as well as new branded products have been catalysts for change, which encompasses everything from upgraded merchandising to brand new displays in discount stores.

One of the new brands, Vassarette, first introduced its line of hosiery to Wal-Mart last spring. This season, it has expanded into Hills, Caldor, ShopKo and Venture. The label offers more fashion than the typical discount branded merchandise, but its other strength is an already established brand name in lingerie.

"We wanted to bring in the because of the mega-branding opportunities," explains Liz Levin, gmm, ladies', Venture, which also carries Vassarette lingerie. According to Levin, the Vassarette label will be added to the mix of brand and private labels at Venture.

According to Maria Ruhl, according count executive, Ithaca Industries makers of the Vassarett line of hosiery, it was Ithaca's private-label customers, like Venture, that the company approach first with the new line.

"We went to our private-label customers that we knew would want to expand more into fashion," Ruhl notes.

Starting in spring, the Vassarette fashion line will include two new bridal styles.

Ruhl noted that in addition to a fashion product, the company has made a great effort to create fashionable packaging. "The packaging is very upscale," she adds. Among the products in the line are basic shades like black and ivory along with soft taupe, and some red and purple, rose-trimmed styles and even a garter-style pantyhose product that come in control top, sheer and other configurations.

Another discount brand that has expanded its scope is L'eggs. The company now offers a L'eggswear line that includes a range of colored tights. Though its everyday L'eggs product remains basic in terms of colorations (beige, black, etc.) it has expanded the styles in terms of sheerness and control top properties.

No Nonsense, another basics brand, is also offering a wider variety of styles and colors in its product line.

"Women are experiencing changes in lifestyle and looking for alternatives to sheer hosiery," says Mary Gilbert, marketing manger, L'eggs. "It seemed appropriate for us to introduce the additions," she says in explaining the changing face of the market.

While hosiery has traditionally been considered a heavily branded market, it has been difficult for discounters to attain the same labels that proliferate at department stores. Lines such as Vassarette and the more basic L'eggs, as well as hosiery programs by sportswear brands such as Bonjour and retailers? own private-label efforts, are helping create a viable fashion statement in discount store hosiery.

Still, there are many who would like to have more prominent national brands on their shelves. "I would love to have Hanes added to our mix, but our hosiery program is basically L'eggs," says Lucy Falazar, buyer, ladies' basics and accessories, Jack's. "The department store brands are reluctant to come into discount. We know there is a lot more we can do with that department."

Currently, Jack's is tied to the L'eggs service program. (L'eggs provides the fixture and services it for the retailers). In addition, Jack's added some of the more fashionable L'eggswear styles for spring.

Leslie James, dmm, Bradlees, admits that some customers need national brands. Currently, Bradees offers No Nonsense, Burlington, L 'eggs and Underalls in its stores. Its private-label line, Rebecca Lynn, constitutes about 27% of its sheer hosiery business.

Kmart, which markets its own Jaclyn Smith line of sheer hosiery, also expanded its L'eggs Everyday presentation at its Auburn Hills prototype store.

Though the private-label brands were decidedly marketed as a price value product, the national discount brands are managing to come in at attractive price points as well. Prices for the Vassarette line range from $2.38 to about $4.98. The bridal products will be closer to $3, according to Ruhl.

Basic L'eggs is sold-for under $2.

The private-label lines are somewhere in between. For instance, Jamesway's Private Matter starts at about $1.19 and goes to about $2.29 for a control top style.

At Target, its Trend Basics line goes for about $2.99, with a firm support product under the Trend Basics label going for $4.49.

The size of the hosiery departments does not seem to be changing even if what's in it is. According to Levin at Venture, there are no plans to significantly increase the department even with the addition of the Vassarette line.

At Bradlees, the hosiery area is about 1,500 square feet. According to Leslie James of Bradlees, "space has not been increased, but has been used more effectively."

Vendors are also helping retailers use space effectively. Ithaca will offer a mini-dump fixture for the Vassarette bridal styles that can be placed on a tabletop or above a lingerie display.