Big returns for big men's - discount stores add big and tall men's clothing departments

Discount Store News, April 3, 1995 by James Mammarella

Discounters shift to boutiques and find a boost

Nationwide DSN report - The viability of boutiquing big and tall men's sizes in discount stores has been long debated. Limited by space and merchandising priorities, many chain have kept bigger sizes within regular departments as extensions on the same racks.

The tide may now be turning in favor of those that create shops within the stores. Aggressive big men's programs by some mass merchants are showing that assortments provide good gross margin/return on investment business.

The potential volume of the market is substantial. Jeff Yunis, president of Specialty trade Shows, which produces the Big and Tall Men's Apparel Needs show, said big and tall sizes are a $4 billion market.

He estimated that 10% of adult men in the United States are either over 6-ft., 2 1/2-in. tall or have a waist line over 42 in. He suggested that these roughly 10 million men each spend $400 per year on clothes.

"Big men do ask for more fashion products," said Mark Irrig, dmm, menswear at Bradlees. "We think this is a huge opportunity; this customer is hungry for fashion."

Bradlees began its Big Men departments two years ago, after research showed they would have more success with big sizes than tall. The 136-unit chain decided to stand for one business in a meaningful way; thus Bradlees, like other discounters, chose to add a 4X size rather than go into a range like 2XT.

The chain also determined that a separate buyer was called for. James Sparks, vp and gmm, men's, boys' and girls' for Bradlees, said, "Vendors appreciate the focus. On the other hand, it puts an extra burden on that buyer." Irrig observed, "From the sourcing, buying and presentation points of view, I see no real economy of scale if we forced the buying process back onto the main line buyers."

Jamesway also segregated its big men's selection two years ago. John Dineen, dmm, menswear at the 90-unit chain, said new overhead and eye-level signage is rolling out for spring. Jamesway now averages six to eight racks in Big Men, with up to 12 racks in larger remodels.

Ames, another Northeastern regional on the comeback trail, has just completed a chainwide rollout of its Big Guy department. "Every store has a minimum of six racks," said Ames chairman, ceo and president Joe Ettore, adding some units feature up to 10 fixtures. "We started in fall with a limited assortment of items; we started flowing merchandise in January. We're very confident it's going to be a big part of our business."

By late March, 305-store Ames was featuring full-page ads for Big Guy in its circulars. Jamesway does a half-page promotion four times each spring and fall, and promotes a big men's item twice a month. Bradlees shows a big men's story at least once a month, using its departmental logo with featured brands.

Ettore said, "[Ames] we do a complete assortment of fashion merchandise, including seasonal garments from sweaters to swimwear and shorts."

Dineen said Jamesway's Big Men would highlight a strong item from any category. Nylon coach's jackets are a current example; as a rule, no outerwear would be featured. He said the department does "surprisingly well in turns: about three times a year," whereas men's sportswear in general can achieve four turns at Jamesway. The mix is consistent with that displayed for regular sizes. "If we're doing pigment dye as a fashion look in regular sizes, we do it in big also," Dineen said.

Bradlees' Irrig said brands are vital to the mix, but even more important is "the quality of fit." If a private label program can achieve the light specs and deliver qualities like durability, he said, it can add profitability and differentiation in much the same way as for regular sizes.

Both Jamesway and Bradlees have found that the big men's department can profitably expand during Holiday, justified by fast-turning items like flannel shirts bought as gifts.

With proven full-year seasonality, and commitment to sharper merchandising, it's a good bet that mass merchants will continue to push the envelope for big men's assortments in the years ahead.