Contemporary plus - plus-size clothing styles - Apparel Merchandising

Discount Store News, May 6, 1996 by Shari Sanders

Mass merchants are finally adopting a contemporary attitude in large-size women's apparel after several seasons of what only amounted to lip service.

"We've updated our entire plus-size department, and we're pretty excited about it. We're planning this year very aggressively," reports Celia Clancy, senior vice president and general merchandise manager at Bradlees. "We're showing a lot of current looks, many of the same styles that the plus-size customer sees her girlfriend in misses wearing, looks that in the past she had a hard time finding. We've totally eliminated stodgy, tired looks like polyester pants and blouses. There's nothing frumpy in our mix."

The updated assortment at Bradlees is anchored by private labels extended from misses. These include Pride's Landing, updated casuals; Madison & Rhodes, soft career dressing; Exchange Unlimited, denim and denim-related sportswear; and B.I. Gear, activewear.

Target also is extending its juniors' and misses' apparel attitude to plus. For the more classic-minded consumer, the chain uses the Honors label on items that include denim dresses, shirts and related twill pants. More contemporary is the Sostanza label, which takes up the bulk of the real estate in the juniors' department. Sostanza plus styles include denim/rayon dresses, gingham and striped coordinates and long floral skirts.

Greenbay, Wis.-based ShopKo hasn't pursued contemporary to the extent of some chains, but it is creating a plus-size business that complements its misses business in point of view.

In an initiative that began about six months ago, ShopKo took 80 percent of its core misses business and translated it into plus. "We've done some very basic things that have given us some very big paybacks," says Jean Srour, divisional vice president of ladieswear. "We're in the first stages of developing dominant categories to drive volume in plus."

Last year, ShopKo offered few models of no-pocket T-shirts and still came away selling 30,000 units. This year, armed with an expanded assortment, the chain is on plan to move 180,000 units. "Last year, there was really no depth in our plus inventory. This year, the mix is more impactful by category," says Srour, noting "category dominance" will try to be achieved in key areas including denim, leggings, stirrups and casual dresses. The mix is mostly private label, with the Northcrest name used for basic and relaxed jeans and related pieces.

In addition to an expanded roster of styles, ShopKo has extended its plus-size spectrum at both ends to include 14W and 16W, as well as 26 and 28. The traditional size range is from 18 to 24. The chain has also added proportional fits. Petite plus is now offered, while tall plus is being tested.

Wal-Mart has taken the momentum of its highly successful Kathie Lee Collection of updated soft career and sportswear and extended it to plus sizes. The line is "checking very well," reports Bob Adler, president of Halmode Apparel, the core Kathie Lee licensee. Key looks with a contemporary flair include printed and denim coordinates, floral skirts and casual dresses.

Wal-Mart also uses its proprietary denim and denim-related casuals brand Faded Glory in plus, showing such styles as jeans, shorts and coordinated woven tops.

Manufacturers report that in nearly every case, a contemporary trend that drives misses and juniors can be successfully translated into plus sizes.

Chic, which has been making plus-size jeans and casual pants and has been licensing out its name for the production of plus-related sportswear for 12 years, is now able to find takers for fashion washes and treatments because of increased market interest in fresher looks. "The discount plus-sizes business is not growing all of a sudden because there are more large women around," says Chic president Bob Luehrs. "It's growing because the market is accepting fashion and telling plus-size women that it is OK for her to wear fashion."

Luehrs notes that until recently he was only able to sell mass merchants "drab, basic washes of denim, maybe a slight stonewash." Now, he says, "there is very little difference between what we're doing in juniors and misses and what we're doing in plus." This includes five-pocket and elastic-waist denim in at least three washes, as well as wrinkle-resistant twill pants.

Plus sizes now account for 15 percent of the total Chic volume. Luehrs expects that ratio to grow more this year.

The exclusively plus-size Richard Simmons line, produced by TTI Apparel and sold at stores like Wal-Mart, Ames and Venture, has altered its design philosophy since its introduction last year. The first collection was splashed with decoration and inspirational sayings, the kind of bold images that are the diet and exercise maven's trademark. The newest offerings are done more tastefully to capture a younger customer. Colorblocking, black and white combinations and denim are used in the creation of coordinates and dresses. Subtle detailing includes embroideries and novelty buttons.