Boston's Museum of Fine Arts initiating major renovation effort

Nation's Restaurant News, May 5, 1997 by Kathy Blake

Kathy Blake

BOSTON - Construction is scheduled to begin in June on an expansion and updating of the food operations at the Museum of Fine Art.

'The dining options at the museum are very similar to those at a hotel,' said Jim Dodge, director of food-service for Daka Restaurants at the museum. 'We Have the Fine Arts Restaurant, a white-tablecloth restaurant; the Galleria Cafe; the Museum Cafeteria, and [catering for] many special events - everything except room service.'

All of them he added, are scheduled for a major overhaul during the next few months.

For 20 years the museum has been a flagship account for Daka. The contractor's goal is to work with museum director Malcolm Rogers to improve the facilities while maintaining important historic aspects.

'Malcolm Rogers has done dynamic things in the two years or so since he came to Boston,' Dodge said. For example, Rogers discovered, renovated and reopened an original entrance to the museum that had been boarded up. Similarly, Frazier Courtyard, an outdoor area neglected for decades, now is landscaped beautifully and open for use.

The wing that houses the dining area was designed by I. M. Pei and has a sleek, modern atmosphere that will be maintained but 'polished' with the coming changes. Light wood panels trimmed with darker wood and wood-brushed metal-black leather chairs will help update the look at the Fine Arts Restaurant.

The renovation will include the rearrangement of space to give diners a feeling that there are several dining areas instead of one large room. A bar-lounge with intimate banquette seating in the Fine Arts Restaurant will be added, and the restaurant's capacity will expand to 220 seats during the warm months with the addition of 72 seats on an adjacent terrace for al-fresco dining. The courtyard also will be the site of outdoor music concerts.

'One of the best parts of all these changes is that we have the opportunity to stimulate guests' senses of not only the sight of beautiful art works but also their taste, smell and hearing,' Dodge said.

'Dining here, whether it's a quick sandwich in the Museum Cafeteria or dinner and wine in the Fine Arts Restaurant, should enhance the experience of visiting the museum and give visitors a chance to rest and ponder what they've seen.'

Meanwhile, construction is scheduled to begin in June for back-of-the-house changes, which will include an expanded kitchen that will take space from the dining room - an unusual sacrifice of income-producing space for production space. A banquet prep area and a pastry kitchen are also unusual in museum foodservice but essential to success for the caliber of dining that Dodge and executive chef Tom Condron have planned.

Both enjoy the aspect of providing an expanded experience and designing menus that coincide with exhibits. 'Tales from the Land of Dragons' is the current show and features 1,000 years of Chinese art. The menus, therefore, have an Asian influence. Next fall a Picasso show will give the kitchen the opportunity to feature Spanish menu items, such as tapas and seafoods.

Background music further supports the themes in the dining areas that are suggested by shows in the museum - now Chinese and, in the fall, Spanish guitar.

Both chefs bring a world of experience and acclaim to their positions at the Fine Arts Museum. Condron has cooked at Maxim's in Paris, the Dorchester Hotel in London, Le Cirque in New York and Jumby Bay Resort in Antigua. He uses his knowledge and enthusiasm for seasonal, organic produce by incorporating the best of New England's farms and vendors.

In fact, Condron already has added such seasonal, creative entrees as porcini-encrusted Georgia Banks cod steak with wild mushroom risotto and fried leeks and oven-roast-ed-and-grilled autumn vegetables with portobello mushroom barley and herb-infused vegetable broth.

Dodge arrives at the museum from the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vt., where he was senior vice president for three years. His career as an executive pastry chef, food writer, award-winning cookbook author and TV personality all comes together in his current position as director of foodservice. According to him, his vision and creativity are fully supported by Daka and the museum directors.

'We've had tremendous support and encouragement,' he said. 'The museum wants to offer a full experience to every visitor as well as spectacular banquet service for special events. And Daka is very smart to stay up with current trends in food and service.'