Guide to fine, fun or fascinating San Francisco dining

Nation's Restaurant News, August 26, 2002

Florio

1915 Fillmore St., (415) 775-4300, Seats: 60. Cuisine: bistro and trattoria "greatest hits." Specialties: steamed mussels and salad of warm shrimp, white beans, arugula and olive oil; steak frites with red-wine butter; Main courses: $15-$25. Chef: Rick Hackett. Owners: Doug Biederbeck and Joseph Graham.

Foreign Cinema

2534 Mission St., (415) 648-7600. Seats: 200. Cuisine: contemporary French bistro. Specialties: blue nose sea bass with leeks, thyme, potatoes, capers, escarole and cider-Champagne butter sauce; duck confit with black caviar lentils, apples and wild treviso. Main courses: $14-$20. Chefs: John Clark and Gayle Pine. Owner: Bruce McDonald. Web site: http://www.foreigncinema.com.

Globe

290 Pacific Ave., (415) 391-4132. Seats: 50. Cuisine: rustic American with an Italian spirit, served till 1 a.m.. Specialties: tuna tartar with black olives, basil and grilled bread; grilled T-bone steak for two with grilled onions and potato gratin; wood-oven pizzas; bucatini macaroni with Tillamook cheddar. Main courses: $16-$23. Chef: Jason Tallent. Owners: Mary Kingbeil-Manzare and Joseph Manzare.

Gordon's House of Fine Eats

500 Floridaa St., (415) 861-8900. Seats: 110. Cuisine: modern American. Specialties: tamarind-glazed tofu with curried vegetables and basmati rice; warm Brussels sprouts salad with bacon, egg and onion; Boso pear, sweet garlic and thyme pizza; grilled lamb "T-bones" with potato hash and minted fava beans. Main courses: $10-$30. Chef-proprietor: Gordon Drysdale. Chef de cuisine: David Ezelle. Web site: http://www.gordons.cc

Grand Cafe

501 Geary St., (415) 292-0101. Seats: 156. Cuisine: modem brasserie. Specialties: wild mousseron mushroom and spring onion tart with truffle sabayon; braised rabbit with fennel, almonds and picholine olives on herbed polenta; sauteed Sonoma duck breast with cardamom and sour cherries on basmati rice and bok choy. Main courses: $17-$25. Chef: Paul Arenstam. Owner: Kimpton Group. Web site: http://grandcafe.citysearch.com.

Hawthorne Lane

22 Hawthome St., (415) 777-9779. Seats: 240, Cuisine: California cuisine with Asian influences. Specialties: heirloom tomato gazpacho with warm goat cheese profiteroles and basil; Shanghai-style crab filed noodles with green onions, eggplant and basil; wood oven-roasted prime rib for two with creamed spinach, salsify fries and lemon-caper sauce. Main courses: $22-$29. Chef: Bridget Batson. Proprietor: David Gingrass. Web site: http://www.hawthornelane.com.

Isa

3324 Steiner St., (415) 567-9568. Seats: 60. Cuisine: French (small plates). Specialties: roasted Prince Edward Island mussels with Fresno chilis, garlic and white wine; potato-wrapped sea bass with brown butter, lemon, capers and parsley; veal sweetbreads and mushrooms ragout with potato gallette; seared Hudson Valley foie gras with caramelized apples. Main courses: $6-$18. Chef-owner: Luke Sung.

Jardiniere

300 Grove St., (415) 861-5555. Seats: 175. Cuisine: California-French. Specialties: sweetbreads with bacon lardons, pearl onions, wilted greens and Madeira sauce; asparagus and onion risotto with hen of the wood mushrooms; Alaskan halibut with peekytoe crab, heirloom tomato and basil fondue. Main courses: $22-$34. Executive chef: Brian Barry. Chef-co-owner: Traci Des Jardins. Designer-co-owner: Pat Kuleto. Web site: http://www.jardiniere.com.