Foodservice minimalism becomes an art form unto itself

Nation's Restaurant News, Oct 25, 1999 by Ron Ruggless

Minimalism has been a big hit in arenas other than the restaurant industry. They include art, architecture, fashion and design. And now the style is showing up in the service end of the restaurant business.

From my perspective, the growing presence of a trend is difficult to gauge. However, it remains clear: More concepts are opening with an emphasis on fewer servers and more patron participation.

Quick-service restaurants, of course, have practiced such minimalism since Day One. The delicatessen, which has had a long history, serves as an example.

But here in the Southwest, we're seeing a growing number of more upscale spots turning to the minimalist approach. NRN Hot Concept winner Cafe Express, based in Houston, was in the vanguard. It now has taken the counter-service concept to Phoenix.

Lonnie Schiller, co-owner of Cafe Express, says the counter service and massive condiment bar in the units offer the customers "freedom." Patrons can select orders "their way" by customizing them with olives, cheeses and pickles as well as by serving themselves tea and coffee and bottled condiments.

When initially explaining Cafe Express' "freedom" fight, Schiller mentions the perfect balance of ice, tea and sugar that waiter-dependent restaurants can throw off at the mere suggestion of a refill. With the minimalist approach, the customer can maintain that ever-important tea equilibrium. That's an important service in the South, and Yankees may not appreciate the importance tea-balance plays deep in the heart of Dixie.

With their success, the Cafe Express folks have expanded the minimalism to their Taco Milagro concept in Houston. For the restaurateur, it reduces labor costs. For the diner, it provides an unimpeded, independent dining experience.

I'm a big fan of such minimalism. I often find myself dining alone at lunch, usually in the company of a newspaper or magazine, and have grown to appreciate -- I'll use the management buzzword -- the empowerment it gives me as a guest.

In Dallas I've found myself drawn to the minimalism of Tin Star, which offers tacos and Southwestern plates and salads in a similar minimalist environment. The owners say one of the reasons for creating the concept with counter service was to reduce those ever-increasing labor costs, provided that the store can find workers in the first place. But the minimalism is refreshing.

Even such short-line cafeteria/bakery concepts, such as Brinker Intemational's Corner Bakery and Dallas-based La Madeleine, are capitalizing on the appeal of minimalism.

Many of my friends are pleased that this minimalism doesn't require the tipping of waiters or a reliance on sometimes less-than-attentive service. Please don't think I'm anti-wait staff. Waiters are great and wonderful and superbly talented. But like Greta Garbo, sometimes I just "want to be alone."

If the labor market continues to remain as tight as a piano string, minimalism will offer a welcome option for the operator.

Speaking of the tight labor market, the critical shortage in Texas recently led the Texas Restaurant Association to endorse a voluntary health-insurance plan that offers coverage to hourly workers, a group that is often ignored.

"Operators, especially independent restaurateurs, have been very interested," says Denise Grasso, spokeswoman for the TRA, which unveiled its endorsement in April. "In the past programs have been more geared to upper management. Operators are seeing the value in retaining employees." So far, 130 restaurant members and 1,200 of their employees have enrolled in the program, Grasso says.

"Some part-time employees have not been able to take advantage of health plans in the past," Grasso continues. "This is the first plan that has been this low-cost and flexible. There is no required contribution fee by the employer, and there is no administration cost."

Carr & Associates of Austin, Texas is the broker for the program, known as Starbridge. According to Grasso, the employer is not charged. Employees wishing to sign up simply pay $6.95 a week. The benefits under the plan include $10 physician visits, a prescription drug program, $1,000 in basic medical coverage annually, $10,000 medical coverage for accidents and a $25,000 accidental-death benefit. Covered workers can choose their doctor and hospital.

"In the past many health-insurance plans didn't allow children and other dependents of covered workers to participate," Grasso says, "but they can in this program."

Clearly, restaurateurs are recognizing the benefit of benefits.