Danielle Johnson: struck with love for this fine-dining restaurant, its unofficial GM says friendliness the core concept

Nation's Restaurant News, Jan 26, 2004 by Naomi Kooker

When Danielle Johnson applied to Arrows for a server's position one summer, the young Maine native did not apply anywhere else.

"I knew I wanted to go there because they were the best," she says. "I wanted to see if I could be accepted there before looking anywhere else."

She was accepted and took what she thought was going to be a summer job at the sprawling dining destination nestled among the woods of Ogunquit, Maine.

Chef-owners Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier noticed Johnson's die-hard work ethic and entrusted her with increasing responsibility. She started organizing the wine cellar and checking the wine as it came in. The legendary 10-foot arrangement bursting with seasonal flora in the main dining room soon became her baby, as did taking care of the flowers throughout the restaurant.

Johnson soon fell in love with her-job--and the sous chef, Justin Walker, with whom she now lives. She stayed on at Arrows, leaving behind her master's degree program at the University of Rochester in Rochester, N.Y.

Five years later the wine list has grown from 380 wines to 600 wines; the number of weddings held at the restaurant has more than doubled; and Johnson, who puts in 16-hour days, six days a week during the peak summer season, couldn't be happier.

"It didn't even take me a season to realize that it was something that I wanted to pursue," says Johnson, speaking from Vail, Colo., where she's taken off-season work while Arrows is closed for the winter, "because I was given so many creative outlets there."

Arrows is a fine-dining restaurant housed in an 18th century post-and-beam farmhouse surrounded by manicured lawns and gardens. Frasier, a California native, and Gaier, from Ohio, renovated the restaurant and opened it in 1988. Arrows has 65 seats and three dining rooms and a lounge-that seats 14. The new-American menu revolves around the restaurant's organic garden, which guests often stroll through, Champagne in hand, before dinner. The flowers from the garden beds are part of the elegant decor.

The Arrows philosophy is to treat everyone who dines at Arrows as an honored guest in "our home," Frasier says.

"We're firm believers it starts from the top--friendliness, being attentive to guests' needs at all times, creating an enjoyable atmosphere," says Frasier, who oversees front-of-the-house operations and therefore is Johnson's supervisor. Opening doors, taking coats, escorting guests to the rest room instead of just pointing them out are what Frasier calls "an old-fashioned view of how people should be treated."

Frasier notes that Johnson is "very dedicated to that."

Little by little, Frasier has handed over some of his responsibilities to Johnson, who has welcomed it all. First it was the wine program, then the flower arrangements and, more recently, weddings.

In 2002 Arrows hosted three weddings; last year, seven; this year 11 weddings are booked before the season is under way, owing to Johnson's efforts.

"She knows how to be gracious with people, make them feel pampered," explains Frasier, who says gross revenue from weddings has increased about $100,000 since she's been in charge of booking them. "She's very cordial and patient, and you have to have all those skills when you're dealing with the mothers of the groom and bride."

Though he's never applied the title of general manager to Johnson, he admits she fits the qualifications. Not only is she in charge of the wine list, flowers and weddings, but also she oversees the front-of-the-house operations, from the receptionist who takes reservations to the valets who open car doors for guests.

Johnson says, "Attention to detail is first and foremost."

Her day starts at 9:30 a.m. with attention to the flowers. She checks all of the half-dozen arrangements, places an order, if necessary, and then heads upstairs to check voice mail and e-mail.

"In a day I can be talking to purveyors, wine distributors, brides, mothers of brides, prospective corporate parties and staff members and focusing on the owners' needs," Johnson says.

She estimates she spends about 50 percent of her lime with guests, including dinner guests and prospective weddings and parties. She spends 25 percent of her time with the staff, including service and training, and the remaining 25 percent on maintaining the restaurant itself, such as researching and updating the wine list.

By 3:30 p.m. she turns all her attention to the dining room and the wait staff, which arrives at that time. She walks through the dining room, flagging tables that have wrinkled tablecloths, tarnished silver and any other imperfections.

"Everything has to look pristine when a customer sits down." Johnson says.

Johnson oversees eight waiters, two back waiters, two bus people, two bartenders and two hostesses. "Everyone has a different task or duty," she says.

Training is important, according to Johnson. Here, she counts on veteran staff to lead new staff members by example.

Johnson also leads by example.