Low-carb craze stirs up quick-service feeding frenzy

Nation's Restaurant News, Feb 16, 2004 by Amy Garber

CKE conducted some primary consumer research last fall and began testing the bunless sandwiches at restaurants in Knoxville, Tenn., and St. Louis.

"The risks were fairly low in our specific situation." Haley says. "We already were using iceberg lettuce leaves." He says the company did consider low-carb buns, but "we didn't feel like they delivered on people's expectations." Although the two chains aren't promoting other sandwiches sold without buns, customers already are requesting them.

"We are very pleased with the results," Haley says. "My only trepidation about this category of products, from an industry perspective, is that people will introduce products that aren't good tasting or may not be as low in carbs as they should be."

In his view, research firm president Sandelman says, "it all comes down to whether or not the replacement of the bun with lettuce leaves will be acceptable to consumers from a taste standpoint. The bun is part of the taste and mouth feel. The bun also makes it easier to keep the sandwich together." He thinks such products might be easier to promote than previous low-fat offerings because chains don't need "to doctor items" but instead simply are removing the bun.

Burger King kicked off 2003 with a nationwide introduction of bunless Whoppers served in a plastic bowl with flatware. The Miami-based chain also is testing a third-pound steakburger wrapped in leaf lettuce with tomato and a low-carb sauce.

Despite the proliferation of such offerings, observers warn that fast-food chains face an uphill battle to make platters appealing to customers who have come to expect hand-holdable, on-the-go menu items.

"It is really hard to change the way people eat," Coen observes.

McVety says packaging and presentation are important, especially for those brands that charge the same price for a burger whether or not it comes with a bun.

"Chains need to be clever with this," he says, suggesting that operators consider serving protein platters with vegetables, such as carrots and celery. "You have got to come out of the box and be really different. Don't just take off the bun."