John Harasty: Churchill Downs chef bets on a rosy future

Nation's Restaurant News, May 20, 1996 by Ellen Koteff

As executive chef at one of America's foremost thoroughbred racetracks, John Harasty cooks for the bluest of blue bloods, the cream of the monied class, the horsey set. Harasty is charged with foodservice at Churchill Downs, and as a result, he finds himself once a year totally immersed in the events, hoopla and frenetic energy surrounding the two most exciting minutes in sports, The Kentucky Derby. From the moment Harasty exited high school he found himself riding high in the restaurant industry. A progression of chef's positions at hotels placed him in Buffalo, N.Y., Cleveland and Toledo, Ohio, Indianapolis and Fort Wayne, Ind., before he galloped to his present position in 1989 to the heart of bluegrass country, Louisville, Ky. As the man holding the reins at Churchill, Harasty oversees the Eclipse Dining Room, Turf Club, The Stakes Room, The Sky Terrace -- three levels -- Millionaire's Row, Silks Dining Room and the Churchill Deli not only during the Run for the Roses but during the three months the track is open.

Title: Executive chef for Aramark at Churchill Downs.

Birthdate: March 23, 1961.

Hometown: Buffalo, N.Y.

Career highlights: Being named executive chef at Churchill Downs; working the Republican National Convention in Houston and getting to cook for George and Barbara Bush; working the Final Four basketball tournament at the Meadowlands.

Were you a horse-racing fan before you ended up at Churchill Downs?

No. The first time I had been to a race track was the day I interviewed for this job. This place was culture shock because thoroughbred racing is absolutely huge throughout northeast Kentucky.

What is the toughest part of your job?

Dealing with seasonal help. We're only open for two months in the spring and one month in the fall. It really makes my job difficult. You can imagine how hard it is to find a great cook who only wants to work four months a year. It's like reopening a place twice a year.

What do you do for the rest of the year?

I oversee our restaurant -- 400-seat Whirlaways -- in the Sports Spectrum in Louisville. The restaurant is open for another eight months of the year. I also travel for the company.

What is the best part of your job?

This really is an exciting place to be especially during Derby Week. I really like the high volume of business we do. During the three months that the track is open we do $9 million in food and beverage sales.

How much time do you spend cooking?

On the average day I'm here 12 hours, and of that I spend about four cooking.

What is the pressure like during Derby Week?

During Derby Week I work 16 to 18 hours a day. I don't stop; I get hit with 50 questions in 30 minutes. There are five different kitchens that revolve around me and the menus I set up. During the week we feed about 35,000 in my dining rooms.

What is the best compliment you ever received?

Customers and the people you work with very often decide how good you are by your soups and sauces. And I hear from our customers a lot that they want to take home my soup.

What are your goals for foodservice at Churchill Downs?

You see many of the same faces at a lot of the race tracks around the country. I'd like to try and have people walk away talking about how good the food, presentation and service are at Churchill Downs. I'd like them to say it's better here than at the other tracks. I want to strive to be the best.

What is the biggest difference between working at a restaurant and working at a racetrack?

My first day of work I was walking around our dining room, and the first race went off. All of a sudden the guy is calling the race, and all your customers get up and start screaming. It was very strange. The races go off every half-hour, so no one would order right before the races, but right after there would be a stampede of orders. So every half-hour you get another shot.

By and large since you've been at Churchill Downs, are you ahead or behind in your betting?

I was behind about three years ago when I stopped betting. Now the only time I ever bet is on Derby Day. About one-half hour before the race runs, I tell my entire staff they have 45 minutes to go and watch the race. Afterward we all come back and clean up. The Kentucky Derby is a sacred moment around here. It's really something to see 135,000 people stand up and sing "My Old Kentucky Home" as the horses enter the track.

Where do you watch the race from?

I watch the race from Millionaire's Row with my brother and some of his friends from Las Vegas. Seats on Millionaire's Row go for about $300, and people won't give them up for anything.

What kind of requests do you get during the race?

We don't get a whole lot of requests. We serve so many people that most of it is buffet. But we do get some requests. Like a couple of years ago I got a request from a Saudi Arabian sheik who wanted a special plate of hors d'oeuvre. Also Lee Iacocca made a similar request not too long ago.

How many people do you feed on Derby Day?

We feed about 4,500 people.

Do you have a lot of friends who call you up during Derby Week for tickets?