Winds of change sweep through Chicago scene; Cafe Provencal slated for closing after latest lease negotiations falter

Nation's Restaurant News, June 21, 1993 by Carolyn Walkup

Cafe Provencal slated for closing after latest lease negotiations falter

EVANSTON, Ill. -- Cafe Provencal, a highly respected country French restaurant for nearly 16 years, is expected to close its doors permanently by July 1.

Owner Andy Reis said he has not been able to reach satisfactory new lease terms with his landlords, owners of the Homestead Hotel, a residential hotel that leases first-floor space to the 80-seat restaurant.

Reis said he does not want to relocate the restaurant because it would be cost-prohibitive "in this economy."

The restaurant, founded with partners and operated primarily by his late wife, Leslee Reis, who died in 1990, has earned numerous national and local awards for excellence over the years and countless loyal customers. It was inducted into Nation's Restaurant News' Fine Dining Hall of Fame in 1988.

Cafe Provencal built its reputation on a mixture of outstanding food and wine, gracious service and homey country inn decor -- complete with a fireplace, leaded glass windows, rustic wood ceiling beams and fresh flowers.

Featuring a menu that changed with the seasons, the restaurant incorporated international culinary influences with American products and French cooking techniques. Light preparations typically used natural stocks, vegetable purees and herbs for seasoning.

Although Reis admitted that this is not an ideal time to own a restaurant, he maintained that business has been good, except for a slight fall-off that he blamed on the recession. "Even without Leslee the restaurant has performed extremely well over the last three years," he said.

The restaurant runs an average check of $62 although a wide range of choices priced from $22 to $75 allows diners to order from both ends of the scale. Reis has noticed that customers are watching what they spend more carefully than they did a few years ago.

The Reises had previously opened two casual restaurants, Leslee's and Bodega Bay Cafe, nearby. However, neither restaurant performed up to the owners' expectations, and they closed both after a few years to concentrate on Cafe Provencal.

Leslee Reis, who studied French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and began cooking professionally as a caterer, oversaw the kitchen, designed the menus and did much of the cooking, particularly in the early years. Her husband, who holds an M.B.A. handled business details and developed expertise in wines.

After his wife's death, Reis added front-of-the-house management duties to his list of responsibilities. Chef Kevin Schrimmer stayed on until a few months ago, when he resigned, and sous chef Leobardo Nunez took his place. Nunez's work "has been super," Reis said.

If he indeed closes the restaurant, Reis plans to take a vacation before pursuing future career possibilities. He is interested in staying in the restaurant business, he said, because "I know a hell of a lot about food and wine."