Pollin opts for comfort over computers in quest for efficient workplace

Nation's Restaurant News, June 26, 1989 by Carolyn Walkup

Pollin opts for comfort over computers in quest for efficient workplace

ARLINGTON HEIGHTS, Ill. -- The kitchen at Le Titi de Paris is just the way the chef-owner likes it, even though he did not design it from scratch.

A clean, quiet, air-conditioned kitchen with lots of light creates a comfortable working environment, says the veteran chef, who feels those things are more important than all the latest technology, such as computerized order-taking. "A computer is not the best idea in a restaurant," he notes.

"We had to work with what was there," says Pierre Pollin, who had made a name for himself and his fine French restaurant when it was in a smaller nearby location. The present building had housed several different restaurants over the years, so the kitchen already was in place.

"I moved only one wall," Pollin explains. He also installed new stainless-steel equipment. Otherwise, he left the basic layout intact.

The kitchen has a standard design, which works efficiently. Wait staffers pick up food orders from the high counter in front of the cooking line and drink orders from a service window at the side of the bar without taking any extra steps.

A compact double cooking line contains everything the cooks need, so they don't have to leave the line during meal preparation. They even have sinks next to the fish and meat stations so they can wash their hands as well as their own pots and pans.

"You should wash your hands after you touch chicken or fish so you don't contaminate anything," Pollin comments.

The cold preparation and pastry area is located across an aisle from the line, next to the walk-in coolers and away from the heat of the stoves. Whoever is working in that area -- either Pollin or his head chef, Jean Marc Loustanau -- can observe what's happening on the line from there.

Air-conditioning keeps the whole kitchen at a comfortable working temperature.

"There are still a lot of restaurant kitchens that don't have it," Pollin explains, noting that it was essential during last summer's long heat wave.

Pollin often works the dining room during lunch and dinner, greeting guests, turning over direct kitchen supervision duties to Loustanau. The total kitchen crew numbers 13. Three languages are spoken there: English, French, and Spanish.

Quite a bit of verbal communication takes place between wait staff and cooks, because Le Titi encourages customers to make special requests and substitutions. The kitchen can prepare dishes not on the menu with a little advance notice.

Le Titi usually serves 75 dinners and 45 lunches daily. Daily specials always are featured and account for a large portion of the orders.

Pollin long ago lightened his versions of classic preparations. A new offering is low-fat and low-cholesterol sauces that can be served with fish and some meat entrees. "We get from three to five daily requests for it," Pollin estimates.

The restaurant also is known for fish dishes, which have grown increasingly popular here, as they have everywhere else. Pollin often combines two or three fish in one entree. Recent examples are a trio of marlin, halibut, and shrimp with asparagus and saffron sauces and a panache of steamed salmon and snapper with tomato sorrel sauce. Pollin is a past winner of the Illinois Seafood Challenge and numerous other professional cooking competitions.

Another favorite item is rack of lamb with natural juices and herbs, a dish that has been on the menu for 14 years. Other meat offerings from the regular menu include roast pigeon with Armagnac sauce and thin slices of beef tenderloin with dry Vermouth, shallots, and lemon grass sauce.

During the summer herbs come from Le Titi's own gardens behind the restaurant.

Desserts are an integral part of dining at Le Titi. Those usually prepared include a bittersweet chocolate terrine with mint and pistachio; Grand Marnier or seasonal fruit souffles; and combination plates of a variety of desserts, chocolates, or cheeses. The restaurant makes its own chocolates since Pollin took a course in chocolate-making.

Complimentary canapes are served at the beginning of dinner; tile cookies and chocolate truffles, at the end. A six-course tasting menu is offered and changes monthly.

PHOTO : Pierre Pollin, chef-owner of Le Titi de Paris, displays a tray of chocolates and other cookies made from scratch in his kitchen.

PHOTO : Chef Jean Marc Loustanau prepares a salad in the cold prep area from a vanatage point enabling him to supervise what's going on on the line.

PHOTO : The cooking action takes place during meal times at Le Titi de Paris. The sinks near the work stations help sanitation and offer convenience for the chefs.

PHOTO : Right: Chef Jean Marc Loustanau retrieves asparagus from the cooler located in the cold prep area.