Heartwise Express pumps healthy fast food to Chicago

Nation's Restaurant News, Jan 11, 1993 by Carolyn Walkup

CHICAGO -- "Fast food for a changing planet" is how Rosemary Deahl describes her Heartwise Express, a new quick-service healthy foods restaurant with an ecology theme.

In the unlikely location of a Michigan Avenue mall food court already dominated by such mainstream fast feeders as Subway, Wendy's and the Great Steak and Fry Co., Heartwise Express serves dishes that are strictly low in fat (below 10 grams), cholesterl and salt and high in complex carbohydrates and fiber. All of the dishes, in fact, meet the guidelines of the American Heart Assoication and the American Cancer Society.

Despite the earlier failures of such nutritionally oriented fast-food chains as D'Lites, Deahl -- who also co-owns a film production company -- believes that the time is right for her concept. "For years I looked in vain for a restaurant where I could feel comfortable eating with my two young children," she said. "I believe Heartwise Express is the answer for dinners who care about what they eat."

Deahl is not alone in her belief that many people are now seeking more nutritious alternatives to typical fast-food restaurant fare. Richard Melman's company is preparing to open a quick-service healthy-foods concept in another Michigan Avenue mall. And the 10-unit Macheezmo Mouse Mexican Cafe of Portland, Ore., features healthy Mexican dishes, with fat content in the 16 percent to 23 percent range.

The Heartwise Express menu emphasizes such ingredients as organic produce, whole grains, low-fat cheeses and just one meat item -- free-range chicken, which she includes to appeal to a broader clientele.

Deahl has worked hard to create a new image for healthy foods that bears little resemblance to the storefront vegetarian or "health food" restaurants that sprouted up in the late 1960s. She hired a well-known restaurant designer and a nationally recognized registered dietician to analyze the recipes, and Deahl personally taste-tested everything to disprove the stereotype that healthy food doesn't taste good.

Design firm Aumiller Youngquist created four distinct seating areas for a total of 123 seats with distinct nature themes -- a forest, a pond, a prairie and a cave. Most of the building materials are made from recycled materials, including table tops of various woods from old doors and furniture, wallboards of recycled newspapers and floor tiles from powdered spent light bulb glass.

Contractors used only nontoxic stains and paints, along with wallcoverings made from mulberry fibers and free of chemicals.

No plastics were used in construction materials. Washable dishware is used for foods consumed in the restaurant.

"There is no red or yellow formica or fluorescent lights," Deahl noted. "We are creating a new paradigm for fast food."

Aware of the demise of the D'Lites chain, Deahl observed, "The food wasn't very good, they expanded too quickly and they were ahead of their time.

"We had to work extra hard to make this food taste superior. This food is full of flavor and spices and is very healthy," she said. The spicy tomato sauce for pasta, for instance, is seasoned with pepper, marjoram, basil, oregano, onions, garlic and balsamic vinegar. Small amounts of salt and sugar also are used.

Other items include black bean chili; corn chowder made with skim milk; Caesar chicken salad with fat-free dressing; Greek calzone with organic whole wheat pizza crust, fresh spinach, mushrooms, non-fat ricotta cheese and a bit of feta cheese; and the Heartwise burger, a meatless soy-based patty on an organic whole wheat bun.

A child's meal consists of a "not" dog made from tofu, soy protein, wheat gluten, spices and other non-meat products, accompanied by roasted potato wedges.

Desserts are filo dough turnovers filled with baked cherries or cooked apples and a little sugar.

Menu prices range from 95 cents for soft serve to $4.95 for a baked chicken teriyaki sandwich. Soups and stuffed baked potatoes are $1.95, the Heartwise burger is $2.95 and pizza and calzones are $3.95. The check average is about $5.75.

Fat content for each item is displayed on the menu board. Printed ingredient listings are available on a literature rack, which also stocks brochures and reprinted articles about nutrition and environmental issues.

"Part of the premise is to educate people -- if they want to be educated. It's not my intent to stop people from eating what we all eat now. Here is a choice," Deahl said.

Working with Deahl is co-owner Les Detterbeck, who is chief financial officer. A CPA, Detterback has done financial consulting for restaurants and other companies.

Keith Sirois, vice president of operations at Heartwise, formerly was Chicago district manager for Old Country Buffet and worked in a variety of management positions for Mrs. Fields Cookies, Taco Bell and Denny's.

Deahl and her associates already are negotiating leases for additional locations for more units. The next one is likely to be open for breakfast in addition to lunch and dinner.