Don Yamauchi: loving the limelight

Nation's Restaurant News, August 30, 1993 by Pamela Parseghian

Title: Chef of Carlos' in Highland Park, Ill. Years in business: 12 Formal Education: A.A. degree, The Culinary School of Kendall College, Evanston, Ill. Birthdate: May 13, 1966 Hometown: Chicago

Chef Don Yamauchi has been barraged with awards and attention after taking over as chef of Carlos' just one and a half years ago. Yamauchi's menus feature such dishes as oxtail-filled ravioli topped with sliced roast venison and white truffle hollandaise; snails with lemonthyme, tomatoes and chives; and halibut with roasted garlic, sun-dried strawberries and hazelnut-celery cream.

Do you enjoy being in the limelight?

I'm loving this right now. But if customers are content, that's good, too. A year ago people didn't really know me, yet customers at the restaurant really loved my food. I was very content with that, too.

What surprised you the most about being a chef?

How hard it was to deal with the personalities. It's not just creating things.

And all the awards I've been getting surprised the hell out of me. When they gave me the Food & Wine Best New Chef Award and James Beard nomination for Rising Chef of the Year, I thought for sure that it was a joke. There are so many people out there. I thought, How the hell did they pick me?

Are you modest?

Verbally I'm modest, but inside I have this huge ego because I want to be the best. I think if my ego is big, may cooking will be, too.

Why did you choose to cook professionally?

Ever since I can remember that's all I wanted to do. And that's all I did in high school When all my friends were taking shop and auto classes, I was taking home economics.

What was the best advice anyone ever gave you?

One of my instructors at Kendall said to the best restaurant with the best chef and rape him for all the knowledge he has. Then go on and do it again. At first I didn't know what he was talking about. I thought it was the weirdest thing until I got out of school; then it made so much sense.

Is your cooking influenced by your Japanese and Filipino heritage?

Sure, I use a lot of Japanese ingredients. I'm not too keen on ingredients from the Philippines. I grew up tasting Filipino foods. There was this fertilized egg with a chicken in the egg. That was the wildest thing I ever ate. When I was five, I thought it was great.

What is your biggest challenge?

To always be motivated to do new things. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, but I definitely want to stay with the times and do light and healthy [cooking].

What talent would you most like to develop?

Creativity. If I could be more creative with food, it would make my job that much easier.

How would you describe your management style?

Very laid back. I'm definitely not a screamer, because I didn't like it when people screamed at me.

How do you motivate your crew of 15 cooks?

They want to work for me, and they don't feel that they have to do the job because they're afraid. I show them respect. If I have any ideas, I try to include them in on it, so they know what is going on.

If one of the people who reports to you could described you with one word, what would it be?

A clown. I sing in the kitchen. I make fun of people. I try to tell dumb jokes. I try to have a good time. It kind of gets in the way, but what the hell, it's my kitchen.

What is the rudest thing you did in a kitchen?

When I was a sous chef, there was this guy who took a wet sponge, and he shoved it onto my butt. I was soaking wet. It was the beginning of a Saturday night, and I though I'd have to go through service with a wet butt, and it was so uncomfortable. So I took a blowtorch to his butt. He had a blister for a week.

What is the best and worst thing about being a chef?

I don't get to spend time with my family. Right now I need time in the kitchen. The best thing is it's something that I like to do.

What do you consider to be your greatest accomplishment?

My 2-year-old son, Brett.

Do you enjoy reading?

Just cookbooks.

Do you cook at home?

No, my wife does. She cooks, cleans, slices and dices. I'm just boring outside of work. I'm a couch potato. I love to watch TV. The remote control is one of my best friends. My wife hates it; she thinks it's the dumbest thing invented.

Chef's Tips:

* Use your hand when plating a towering dish instead of a fork, spoon or tongs.

* After plating, use a napkin moistened with club soda to wipe the rim of the dish.