Philly chef 'steaks' his claim, rules prime retail kingdom

Nation's Restaurant News, Sept 9, 1996 by Suzanne Kapner

The idea for Arroyo sprung as Davis and his wife, Michelle, searched for good barbecue in the city.

"Barbecue takes so long to cook that we'd always go out for it," he says. "But we couldn't really find good barbecue."

Texas-style slow-cooked meats and fish are complemented by other Southwestern dishes at the 200-seat Arroyo, which offers an additional 180-seats outside when seasons and weather permit. Menu items include crab and Brie quesadilla, $8, and tea-smoked duck with dried cherry and onion marmalade, $15. Davis said he expects annual sales to hit $6 million. In addition to food, the restaurant offers at its bar 60 kinds of tequila, which patrons can sample on one of two decks overlooking the Schuylkill River.

The restaurant is located on Venice Island, a strip of land rising from the canal that runs along Main Street.

For his fourth project in Manayunk, Davis targeted an audience he considered underserved in the trendy area. "There are too many upscale restaurants in Manayunk, and nobody's doing great sandwiches," he said.

Located next to the movie theater, the 220-seat River City Diner will cater to those stopping for a quick bite before or after a film, with New York-style deli sandwiches, meat loaf, brisket, mashed potatoes and a 24-hour breakfast. Davis said entrees would cost less than $12.

With nearly four restaurants opened in four years in the area, Davis is considering taking one of his concepts on the road. He said he'd like to open Sonoma in three or four markets within an hour of Philadelphia.

But first he is turning his attention to building an infrastructure to support his organization. All the restaurants operate as separate corporate entities and are privately financed. Davis said he is looking for a director of operations to consolidate purchasing although he said the restaurants do benefit from chain pricing in certain situations.

As for his staff, he refers to them more as a family than as employees because many have been with him from the beginning.

"Every chef has been with me since Sonoma opened," he said. "And five managers have been with me from the beginning."

That family feeling is taken literally sometimes. Five couples have met and married while working in his restaurants, Davis said.

"The first day I opened Sonoma, I said, `No hanky-panky between the staff.' Next thing I knew my cook and manager started a fling."

Davis actually broke the "no hanky-panky" rule himself while at 1701, where he met his wife, who was a waitress.

"I fired her, then married her," he said.