Mufso Dining Guide To The New And Classic Restaurants Of Chicago

Nation's Restaurant News, August 31, 1998 by Andy Battaglia, Amy Zuber

(Reservations recommended) First, the 11 Chicago-area inductees into Nation's Restaurant News Fine Dining Hall of Fame: Ambria 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, (773) 472-5959. A longtime Chicago fine-dining favorite, this 1983 Hall of Fame inductee boasts contemporary French and Spanish cuisine served in an elegant Art Nouveau interior.

Renowned chef-partner Gabino Sotelino's specialties include such menu items as sauteed foie gras with fresh plum and plum chips and rack of lamb with couscous terrine and pumpkin-seed-encrusted red snapper. Ambria is widely considered one of the Windy City's most popular restaurants. Dinner only. Arun's 4156 N. Kedzie Ave., (773) 539-1909. This 1996 Hall of Fame inductee hides a rich, luxurious fantasyland of an interior behind a markedly urban storefront facade. Known as one of America's best Thai restaurants, Arun's serves dishes like shiitake pancakes with chrysanthemum leaves and ginger veal in lemon grass-miso sauce prepared by the restaurant's namesake chef-owner Arun Sampanthavivat. Known for its artistic presentation as well as its culinary creations, Arun's presents an all-encompassing ethnic dining experience. Dinner only. Cape Cod Room Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton Place, (312) 787- 2200. As trendy eateries come and go seemingly with the wind, the Cape Cod Room has staked a claim for itself by staying true to its old-fashioned seafood house roots. This semi-casual restaurant boasts an atmosphere accented with a collection of whimsical nautical artifacts and the smells of dishes like its famous clam chowder, whole Maine lobster and papillote in red-wine sauce. Inducted into the Hall of Fame in 1990, the Cape Cod Room is also home to an oyster bar. Lunch and dinner. Charlie Trotter's 816. W. Armitage Ave., (773) 248-6228. This restaurant was inducted into the Hall of Fame in 1991, and chef Charlie Trotter stands firm as one of the world's most famous culinarians and one of the most imaginative, too. Known for his adventurous New American cuisine, Trotter offers only three degustation menus per night, which vary from dishes like marinated onaga with blood orange juice, extra virgin olive oil and lemon thyme to lemon-balm-infused Dungeness crab consomme with crab-stuffed squash blossoms, white asparagus and ramps. Combining flavors that would seemingly make strange bedfellows, Trotter creates a cuisine that is wholly original. Dinner only. The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton 160 E. Pearson St., (312) 266-1000. For those wishing to dine in luxury, The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton offers crystal chandeliers and a decidedly sophisticated environment. Noted as one of the best hotel restaurants in the country, The Dining Room became a Hall of Fame member in 1985. Chef Sarah Stegner, who adds a new twist to French culinary tradition, was named a 'Rising Star" by the James Beard Foundation in 1994. Since then, her star has risen thanks to dishes like sauteed turbot on a stew of roasted peppers and eggplant and Colorado rack of lamb stuffed with pesto and served with basil-goat cheese whipped potatoes. Dinner and Sunday brunch only. Eli's the Place for Steaks 215 E. Chicago Ave., (312) 642-1393. Recently renovated, this family-owned Chicago institution became famous for -- you guessed it -- its steaks. But it offers more than steaks, as devotees of the signature chopped liver or Eli's Famous Chicago Cheesecake will be quick to add. With a new atrium overlooking Chicago Avenue and steady traffic made up of local politicians, sports figures and other prominent Chicagoans, Eli's has become the place for a whole lot more. It was inducted into the Hall of Fame in 1983. Lunch and dinner. Everest 440 5. LaSalle St., 40th floor, (312) 663-8920. The view of Chicago's upper reaches from this 40thfloor modern French restaurant is rivaled only by chef Jean Joho's culinary landmarks of haute cuisine. And the creativity of dishes like foie gras terrine with marinated figs and poached beef tenderloin pot au feu style with horseradish cream is matched only by the expansive roster of wines, featuring a large selection from Joho's homeland of Al-sace. A Hall of Fame inductee in 1993, Everest tends to inspire reactions just this side of its namesake. Dinner only. Gordon 500 N. Clark St., (312) 467-9780. Twenty years old but still as stylish and contemporary as can be, owner Gordon Sinclair's self-named restaurant specializes in cutting-edge New American cuisine. Chef Don Yamauchi's ever-changing menu may or may not include dishes like pan-roasted monkfish with braised Savoy cabbage, andouille sausage, white truffle oil and daikon sprouts alongside standards such as artichoke fritters and flourless chocolate cake. In addition, the restaurant features live piano music 7-10 p.m. nightly. Gordon has been a Hall of Fame member since 1985. Lunch and dinner. Morton's of Chicago 1050 N. State St., (312) 266-4820. Consistently among the front-runners for the title of Best Steak House in the Country, this is the original location of what has grown into a national chain of Morton's upscale steak houses. A Hall of Fame inductee in 1987, Morton's features prime, dry-aged steaks, a veal chop that's equally renowned as well as chicken, lobster and fish. On the side you'll find oversized servings of potatoes, vegetables and salads meant to be shared, a notion supported by Morton's clubby atmosphere. Dinner only. Spiaggia 980 N. Michigan Ave., 2nd floor,(312) 280-2750. Inducted into the Hall of Fame in 1992, Spiaggia serves a renowned upscale Italian cuisine in a lavish dining room with views of North Michigan Avenue and Oak Street Beach. Chef Paul Bartolotta's culinary creations have been instrumental in the upgrading of Italian cuisine in America, with dishes like Tuscan bean soup with wheat berries and wood-roasted guinea hen with savoy cabbage, pancetta and porcini mushrooms. Spiaggia was also a pioneer in the use of wood-burning oven and hearth-baked, thin-crust pizzas. Lunch and dinner. Trio 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, (847) 733-8746. A brand-new 1998 Hall of Fame inductee, Trio is located in nearby Evanston. Known for a decidedly eclectic menu with influences from France, Italy and Spain, chef Scott McClain creates an applewood-smoked sturgeon with a casserole of fingerling potatoes, wild leeks, oysters and warm curry nage alongside items like a Japanese bento box appetizer. The menu also features specialty desserts, such as creme brulee Trio in vanilla, coffee-hazelnut and milk chocolate flavors. Dinner, Tues.-Sun. Lunch on Fridays only. Other new or notable dining destinations in Chicago: Aubriot 1962 N. Halsted, (773) 281-3170. This brand-new contemporary French restaurant is located in the young and upcoming neighborhood of Lincoln Park. With experience at such notable eateries as Trio and Ambria, chef Eric Aubriot has created a menu that concentrates on a lighter, healthful interpretation of French cuisine, with favorites like Florida frog's legs and roasted veal kidneys appetizers and a sauteed sweetbread foie gras entree. Aubriot is owned by its chef and his wife, Stephanie. Dinner and Sunday brunch. Closed Mondays. The Berghoff 17 W. Adams St., (312) 664-1474. This classic turn-of-the-century German eatery is celebrating its 100th year. In the heart of the Loop business district, the Berghoff is well-known for German standards like Wienerschnitzel and sauerbraten as well as a selection of contemporary American dishes. The moderately priced cuisine is served in an old-fashioned setting, with oak-paneled walls and Tiffany light fixtures. Lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays. Bice Ristorante 158 E. Ontario St., (312) 664-1474. This charming, elegant eatery offers North Italian cuisine in an upscale, stylish decor. With outdoor seating available under umbrellas in the patio area, Bice attempts to re-create some of its homeland's ambience. The first Bice opened in Italy ages ago in 1926, but the Chicago location still serves local chef Giancarlo Gottardo's specialty of pappardelle al telefono pasta in the Milanese style of old. Lunch and dinner. The Big Downtown 124 N. Wabash Ave., (312) 917-7399. Step into The Big Downtown and you step back into the old Chicago of the 1940s. With '40s-style jazz and swing on the speakers, pictures of the era's biggest stars on the walls and an El train replica circling over the bar, this 230-seat theme restaurant is a favorite with lunchtime Loop businessman and tourists alike. The Big Downtown's moderately priced menu features specialties like barbecue ribs, crab cakes and steaks. Lunch and dinner. Bistro 110 110 E. Pearson St., (312) 266-3110. This upscale casual French-American bistro is located downtown off Michigan Avenue. A favorite of locals, neighborhood shoppers and out-of-towners alike, Bistro 110 is known for its wood-burning oven. The oven helps prepare specialties like oven-roasted salmon and chicken prepared with rosemary and thyme as well as the favorite whole-roasted garlic cloves. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Blackbird 619 W. Randolph St., (312) 715-0708. Located in the Randolph Street Marketplace area, the 8month-old Blackbird restaurant serves a seasonal American cuisine with French influences. The sleek, minimalist-inspired dining room serves as a sophisticated upscale environment for chef Paul Kahn's creative menu. Popular favorites include a charcuterie plate appetizer of homemade duck sausage with country pate and entrees like confit duck with sweetbreads in a root vegetable puree, haricot veils and sun-dried cherry-cassis jus. Lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays. Blackhawk Lodge 41 E. Superior St., (312) 280-4080. Decorated with windmills, flags and pinewood, the Blackhawk Lodge is known for its old, rustic mountain lodge atmosphere. Owner Doug Ross, whose father's original Blackhawk was a Chicago landmark for 45 years, has stuck with tradition in this 260-seat restaurant. Chef Scott Ubert's American regional cuisine includes such favorites as mustard-crusted salmon, beef bourbon tenderloin and ribs. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Blue Point Oyster Bar 741 W. Randolph St., (312) 207-1222. Located in the Randolph Street Marketplace area, Blue Point Oyster Bar, which is owned by the Restaurant Development Group, features classic East Coast seafood cuisine. Executive chef Lou Bastian serves scallion-crusted escolar, soft-shell crab and lobster. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Brasserie Jo 59 W. Hubbard St., (312) 595-0800. A more casual eatery operated by chef Jean Joho of NRN Hall of Fame inductee Everest, Brasserie Jo features moderately priced traditional Alsatian French cuisine prepared by one of Chicago's best chefs. In the casual atmosphere of a French bistro, Joho presents dishes like a shrimp bag with shrimp and herbs baked in a filo dough and brasserie steak with pomme frites. Entrees range from $10 to $20. Dinner and weekday lunch. Live jazz on Friday nights. Buca di Beppo 2941 N. Clark St., (773) 348-7673. A winner of Nation's Restaurant News Hot Concept awards for 1998, Buca di Beppo is a Southern Italian casual dining concept that is as heavy on the family-dining atmosphere as the powerful flavors of its garlic and red-sauce dishes. Buca's entrees are meant to feed three to five diners and, should you desire, can be shared at the communal "Pope's Table," which seats up to 18. All that between walls and ceilings literally covered with pictures, posters and all things Italian gives Buca di Beppo the atmosphere of a special Italian feast. Dinner only. Cafe Matou 1846 N. Milwaukee Ave., (773) 384-8911. Chef-owner Charles Socher describes his menu as a contemporary adaptation of country French cooking. Specialties include pan-roasted pork chops with a pan sauce of rosemary, orange zest and pepper and skewered mussels with bacon and scallions. Located on the northern end of the Bucklown neighborhood, the 54-seat restaurant has a smoke-free dining room and a separate 24seat lounge. Dinner only. Closed Mondays. Coco Pazzo 300 W. Hubbard St., (312) 836-0900. A satellite location of the New York-based upscale Italian concept, this location is set in a converted loft space in the arty River North area. Featuring regional Italian cuisine with a Tuscan emphasis, Coco Pazzo offers such specialties as bistecca all a Fiorentina, a traditional Tuscan steak seared with herb oils, and ravioli di asparagi e scampi, asparagus-filled ravioli tossed with shrimp and tomato. Also, chef Gregorio Stephenson's extended time in the Italian Riviera helps make his fish specialties a popular favorite. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Le Colonial 937 N. Rush St., (312) 255-0088. This bilevel French Vietnamese restaurant, with its palms and plush decor, conjures up the days of Saigon in the 1930s. Located in the Gold Coast area, Le Colonial offers both a fine-dining restaurant on one level and a smoke-friendly bar/lounge with an outdoor terrace upstairs. Some of chef Quoc Luongs specialties are a Chao Tom appetizer of grilled shrimp wrapped around sugar cane and Cachien Saigon, a spicy pan-seared red snapper entree. Lunch, Mon-Sat. and dinner daily. Con Fusion 1616 N. Damen, (773) 772-7100. Chef Kevin Shikami's dramatic cooking is served in a minimalist Bucktown space designed in mostly black and white. The cuisine is influenced by flavors from Hawaii to Italy to Japan. Specialties include tuna tartare, Hawaiian opah and mushroom-and-truffle-oil risotto with sauteed duck breast and quail. Dinner only. Crofton on Wells 535 N. Wells Ave., (312) 755-1790. Not yet a year old, Crofton on Wells is the new restaurant of chef Suzy Crofton, who trained at the renowned Le Francais in nearby Wheeling. Serving a seasonal American cuisine in an intimate minimalist environment, Crofton includes on her menu such specialties as charred rare ahi tuna with sweet red peppers, avocados, corn and tomatillas as well as grilled venison medallions with black mission figs, polenta and sage pastel. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Closed Sundays. Cyrano's Bistrot & Wine Bar 546 N. Wells St., (312) 467-0546. This intimate, upscale casual French bistro is a favorite of River North area locals seeking chef Didier Durand's moderately priced culinary creations. Some of the menu's specialties include roasted rabbit with Dijon mustard sauce, vegetables and pearl pasta and rotisserie-baked leg of lamb or duck served in a choice of white-wine herb sauce, orange sauce or grained mustard sauce. The restaurant's name is derived from the famous Cyrano de Bergerac, whose legend is associated with Durand's hometown in France. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Closed Sundays. Erwin 2925 N. Halsted, (773) 528-7200. A contemporary American bistro with deep-green walls that provide the comfortable backdrop for chef-owner Erwin Drechsler's heartland fare. Specialties include wood-grilled pork chops, fresh fish, steak and noodles with roasted rabbit and wild mushrooms. Dinner and Sunday brunch. Closed Mondays. Fog City Diner 33 W. Illinois St., (312) 828-0404. A satellite of this upbeat, energetic San Francisco-based concept, Fog City Diner is a moderately priced American eclectic eatery brand-new to Chicago. With an interior mixing 1930s Art Deco influences with 1960s rock concert posters from the Fog City itself, the restaurant serves specialties like veal meat loaf with apricot chutney, moo shu pork burritos and fresh oysters. Lunch and dinner. Frontera Grill and Topolobampo 445 N. Clark St., (312) 661-1434. The interior of both dining rooms is colorful and lively, serving as striking backdrops to the authentic and acclaimed Mexican food from chef Rick Bayless. Topolobampo is the high-end sibling of the more casual Frontera Grill. Frontera Grill serves smoked chicken enchiladas and grilled daily fish in a roasted chile sauce. Topolobampo's fare, which is served in a semiformal setting, includes such specialties as rabbit in a creamy-smoky chipotle chili sauce. Lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Gibson's Steakhouse 1028 N. Rush St., (312) 266-8999. This boisterous, busy Gold Coast steak house is a favorite with businessmen and a crop of local celebrities. Known for its large portions, including a 48-ounce Porterhouse steak and the Super-Duper Colossal 40-ounce lobster, Gibson's encourages sharing. The menu of steak, chicken and seafood is served in a wood-paneled dining room with large, red booths and touches of Art Deco. Dinner only. Grapes 733 N. Wells St., (312) 943-4500. A favorite of the young, arty River North set, Grapes is one of chef-owner Steven Chiappetti's three Chicago restaurants. This small, personalized River North Mediterranean restaurant's menu is the simplest of the three, which include the more artistic dishes of Mango and the fine-dining selection at Rhapsody. Specialties include vegetable and chicken dishes prepared in a tagine, a special pot used in Morocco to prepare food with couscous. Other dishes include grilled halibut on a bed of arugula with caper-black olive relish and paella. Lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays. Green Dolphin Street 2200 N. Ashland Ave., (773) 395-0066. Green Dolphin Street is both a fine-dining establishment and one of the city's pre-eminent jazz clubs. With no cover for diners, the restaurant offers nightly jazz in its retro jazz ballroom atmosphere. The contemporary American menu includes such highlights as a smoked sturgeon appetizer with roasted baby portobello mushrooms, arugula and black crimson tomato coulis. Entree selections include dishes like roasted shallot-crusted lamb rack with sweet pea ravioli, eggplant caviar and herbs. Dinner only. Harry Caray's 33 W. Kinzie St., (312) 465-9269. Located in the River North district, this celebrity-owned restaurant is a popular dining destination for tourists and baseball fans alike. Chef Abraham Aguirre serves Italian-American fare, such as chicken Vesuvio and veal Marsala. Renowned Cubs announcer Harry Caray, who died recently, made frequent visits to his namesake restaurant. The restaurant has a second outpost in Wheeling, a suburb of Chicago. Harvest on Huron 217 W. Huron St., (312) 587-9600. With walls displaying colorful modern art from a nearby gallery, Harvest on Huron hosts a variety of business clientele and funky River North patrons. The casual upscale eatery's menu is New American with influences from all over the globe. Highlights include the Samurai Salmon Roll prepared with coriander seeds, salmon roe and soy glaze served with a radish and jicama salad and the Shrimp Mojito, which features shrimp grilled with sugar cane, sweet barbecue sauce and papaya-mint salsa. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Havana 230 W. Kinzie Ave, (312) 595-0101. With two palm trees in the entranceway, a downstairs cigar bar and walls covered with pictures of old Cuba, you might feel as if you've stepped into this restaurant's namesake city. This large, midpriced eatery serves Cuban cuisine like Lechon, which is a whole pork tenderloin served with adobe mashed potatoes in a spiced veal reduction, and an appetizer of jerk chicken skewers with a banana scotch bonnet sauce. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Closed Sundays. Heaven on Seven on Rush 600 N. Michigan Ave., (312) 280-7774. This Cajun and Creole restaurant certainly is heaven for fans of hot sauce. With a "Hall of Flame" wall display showcasing 1,800 different types of hot sauces and 26 bottles to choose from at each table, Heaven on Seven likes it hot. Some of the menu highlights include coconut-crusted Louisiana Gulf Shore shrimp, sesame-crusted chicken breast and the Delta staple, gumbo. Lunch and dinner. Hudson Club 504 N. Wells St., (312) 467-1947. This 1940s supper-club-style restaurant has a few modern touches, including the visits of both in- and out-of-town celebrities who flock to this see-and-be-seen location. A cigar bar with velvet couches and more than 100 wines-by-the-glass complement the American contemporary cuisine of chef Paul Larson. A few menu favorites include cornflake-crusted shrimp in a Tabasco broth with collard greens and chives and a black pepper-crusted ostrich with mascarpone and wild mushroom tortellini, asparagus and consomme. Dinner only. Maggiano's Little Italy 516 N. Clark St., (312) 644-7700. The original location of the Maggiano's Southern Italian concept has a 250-seat dining room styled as a prewar Little Italy supper club. The Frank Sinatra music, the old pictures and the red-checkered tablecloths raise the spirits for dishes like pasta di Gregorio, New York steak contadina and chicken giardiniera. And the tiramisu will have you uttering "Ciao bella!" Lunch and dinner. Mantuano Mediterranean Table 455 Cityfront Plaza, NBC Tower, (312) 832-2600. Chef-owner Tony Mantuano's new location of his old Tutta Posto concept, the Mediterranean Table features food from all over the namesake region as well as an extensive wine list to match. With 215 seats and a large, open kitchen, the restaurant strives to capture the Mediterranean's warm, inviting atmosphere. Dishes include seafood cataplana, which includes an assortment of seafood in a spicy tomato broth served over couscous and a grilled marinated lamb with oregano potatoes and sauteed spinach. For a sampling of the region's best culinary staples, try the notable Mediterranean antipasto platter. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Marche 833 W. Randolph St., (312) 226-8399. One of the up-and-coming Randolph Street Market restaurant area's favorites, Marche serves traditional French cuisine in a lively, colorful atmosphere that draws comparisons with Cirque de Soleil. With a dynamic bar area and 180 seats, the restaurant has a party-like environment that adds a kick to Marche's seasonal menu, which includes spit-roasted chicken with pommes frites and a giant shrimp appetizer served with a vanilla bean sauce and red-wine syrup. Marche also features more than 200 wines. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Meritage Cafe and Wine Bar 2118 N. Damen Ave., (773) 235-6434. Serving multicultural dishes with an emphasis on fresh fish, Meritage has garnered rave reviews in its first year. Diners in the young neighborhood of Bucktown have flocked to consume chef Jonathan Harootunian's dishes, such as sugar-spiced ahi tuna wrapped in brown sugar and spices served over wild grains, curry oil and sriracha sauce and the specialty lobster and crab cake appetizer. Should seafood not be your choice, try the grilled beef tenderloin over goat cheese-whipped potatoes in a red wine reduction. Dinner only. Michael Jordan's 500 N. LaSalle St., (312) 644-DUNK. In addition to the chance of rubbing elbows with Chicago's foremost deity, Michael Jordan's steak-house concept offers a variety of selections, such as hickory-smoked barbecue ribs, bow tie pasta with chicken and mushroom, and Michael's banana pudding -- his favorite, not his recipe. The restaurant accommodates a mixed crowd, which includes tourists, suburbanites and businessmen. Lunch and dinner. Nick's Fishmarket and Grill One First National Bank Plaza, (312) 621-0200. The flagship location of the fine-dining seafood, steak and pasta concept, Nick's restaurant in the Loop business district remains quiet and low key despite its roomy 250-seat interior. Entrees, which range from $25 to $35 for dinner, include lobster fra diavolo, a linguine dish with spicy marinara sauce and Amish chicken with ragout sauce. Nick's also features an array of fresh fish and seafood dishes. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Closed Sundays. Okno 1332 N. Milwaukee Ave., (773) 395-1313. This year-old eatery with an outdoor patio in the Wicker Park neighborhood serves a global eclectic cuisine to an audience ranging from serious foodies to the young and trendy. With a DJ spinning the newest records and a colorful, futuristic decor, Okno is definitely no throwback. Some of chef Joshua Cohen's specialties include sweet potatocrusted yellow fin tuna, a poached salmon with dill spaetzle and lingonberry reduction, and a fresh, daily vegetarian special. Dinner only. Park Avenue Cafe Doubletree Guest Suites Hotel, 199 E. Walton St., (312) 944-4414. New York Restaurant Group's Alan Stillman brought this New York institution to Chicago. Chef Steve Permaul interprets New York chef-owner David Burke's flamboyant cooking style with signatures like pastrami salmon. Permaul also adds his own touch to the food with such contemporary American specialties as mustard-crusted tuna teriyaki and veal chops with saffron risotto gnocchi. Dinner daily and American dim sum brunch on Sundays. The Palm The Swissotel, 323 E. Wacker, (312) 616-1000. This famous New York-based steak house is housed in a dramatic space with high-backed booths and celebrity caricatures decorating the walls. Owners Bruce Bozzi and Wally Ganzi, along with executive chef Paul Principato, serve hearty helpings of steak, veal and lobster. Lunch and dinner. Pasteur 5525 N. Broadway, (773) 878-1061. Owner Kim Nguyen and chef Dan Nguyen serve affordable and authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a space that has closely packed tables and lots of energy. Specialties include rice paper rolls stuffed with grilled beef or shrimp paste formed around sugar cane, garlic shrimp and fried whole red snapper. Lunch, Wed.-Fri. and dinner. Printer's Row 550 S. Dearborn, (312) 461-0780. Co-owner and chef Michael Foley is renowned for the intense flavors in his American-inspired cuisine. Entrees, which often highlight various game specialties, also include rosemary-infused grilled sturgeon over red-wine mashed potatoes and pan-seared sweetbreads on grilled radicchio and leeks. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Closed Sundays. The Pump Room Omni Ambassador East Hotel, 1301 N. State Pkwy., (312) 266-0360. A Gold Coast landmark, this elegant room often is described as one of the classiest in the city with the wait staff donning tuxedos and live piano music entertaining the customers. Executive chef Martial Noguier serves American and French cuisine, including crab cakes, veal chop and duck. Desserts include pistachio parfait and chocolate porcupine. Lunch and dinner. Red Light 820 W. Randolph, (312) 733-8880. A whimsical and flamboyant design serves as the backdrop for Pan-Asian cuisine that is served at this Randolph Street Market restaurant. Executive chef John Ayaleanos serves a variety of Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese dishes. Starters include tea-smoked squab with scallion pancakes and steamed dumplings filled with eggplant and mushrooms. Entrees range from spicy red-curry chicken to duck served with a plum sauce. Dinner daily. Rhapsody 65 E. Adams, (312) 786-9911. Located in the Loop next to the home of the Chicago symphony, Rhapsody's dining room was designed to provide a sense of harmony for its customers. Executive chef Steven Chiappetti, who also created Mango and Grapes in the River North area, serves American cuisine at his third restaurant. Specialties range from chilled lobster salad with artichoke-and-tomato ragout to roasted rack of lamb with potato puree, fava beans and rosemary essence. Lunch and dinner. Rivers Mercantile Exchange, 30 5. Wacker, (312) 5591515. Located in the Loop near the Civic Opera House, Rivers has a spacious and beautiful dining room that is accented with mahogany wood. Chef Larry London serves contemporary American cuisine, including grilled sea bass with spicy tangerine glaze, citrus butter and curry oil and rack of lamb with maple mustard, rosemary jus and horseradish. Rivers also features alfresco dining. Dinner daily and weekday lunch (Sunday dinner when there is a performance at the Opera House) Ruth's Chris Steak House 431 N. Dearborn, (312) 321-2725. A New Orleans-based steak-house chain that serves quality beef in an old boy's club setting. In addition to hearty portions of prime meats and seafood, Ruth's Chris offers a large variety of appetizers, such as Cajun shrimp, and an extensive wine list. Sides include mashed potatoes with plenty of garlic and spicy green beans. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Closed Sundays. Salpicon! 1252 N. Wells, (312) 988-7811. Owner Vincent Satkoff has created a brightly decorated dining room adorned with Mexican artwork as the backdrop for executive chef Priscila Satkoff's contemporary - and often quite spicy -Mexican fare. Specialties range from grilled tiger shrimp served with fresh mango to pork tenderloin in a roasted tomato-chipotle sauce. Dinner daily and Sunday brunch. Shaw's Crab House and Blue Crab Lounge 21 E. Hubbard, (312) 527-2722. At this longtime Chicago institution, Shaw's executive chef, Neil Corman, serves a variety of seafood specials, ranging from oysters to crab cakes. The menu includes soft-shell crab, steamed lobster, grilled grouper and sauteed scallops. Shaw's has an outpost in Deerfield, a Chicago suburb. The downtown location has a funky lounge with jazz, blues and a small menu that includes a raw bar. Lunch Monday and Saturday and dinner. Smith & Wollensky 318 N. State St., (312) 670-9900. New York Restaurant Group's Alan Stillman recently brought a satellite of this New York steak and chop house to downtown Chicago. Located next to the Chicago River, Smith & Wollensky serves jumbo portions of prime meats and seafood in a clubby setting. The executive chef is Hans Aefchbacher. Lunch and dinner. Soul Kitchen 1576 N. Milwaukee, (773) 342-9742. This popular and bustling Bucktown restaurant, which is owned by Pam Scariano, Terry Alexander and Michael Noone, has become a favorite among locals for its intense flavors and unusual offerings. Chef Monique King brings an eclectic mix to the menu with dishes that are influenced by Asian, Caribbean and south-of-the-border flavors, including pecan-crusted catfish with black-eyed peas and collard greens. The menu also includes several vegetarian items. Dinner daily and Sunday brunch. Spago Bar and Grill and Spago Restaurant 520 N. Dearborn, (312) 527-3700. Renowned restaurateurs Wolfgang Puck and Barbara Lazaroff brought their Los Angeles concept to Chicago. The restaurant serves American cuisine with European and Asian accents. Executive chef Francois Kwaku-Dongo prepares various signature items, including Cantonese-style duck, Shang-hai lobster with "long life" noodles and curry sauce. Dinner daily and weekday lunch. Spruce 238 E. Ontario St., (312) 642-3757. Restaurateur Daniel Sachs has created an elegant dining setting with a minimalist decor that features massive columns and wood accents. The room is highlighted by lavish floral arrangements. Executive chef Jeff Constance, who just recently joined the restaurant following Keith Luce's departure, serves fresh and exciting American cuisine with seasonal variations. Dinner daily. 312 Chicago 136 N. LaSalle St., (312) 696-2420. The San-Francisco-based Kimpton Hotel & Restaurant Group opened this restaurant on a choice Loop corner across from City Hall and the State of Illinois building. The restaurant's space was formerly a bank. Executive chef Dean Zannela serves Italian-inspired American cuisine with signature dishes, including seared scallops with wild mushrooms and truffle oil and ravioli filled with smoked salmon in a lemon-and-asparagus cream. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Thyme 464 N. Halsted, (312) 226-4300. This Chicago newcomer, which opened in June, has made a splash with locals because of an outdoor patio that features a beautifully landscaped garden. But the choice outdoor tables are given on a first-come, first-serve basis. Thyme's facade is marked by an enormous clock. Co-owner and chef John Bubala, who formerly was with Marche, serves a unique cuisine featuring French, Northern Italian and Spanish fare. Lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays. Toque 816W. Randolph St., (312) 666-1100. Restaurateurs Oliver Rohmann and Stefan Billen recently brought this new addition to the Randolph Street Market, an area that has become a hotbed of new restaurants in Chicago. The elegant dining room is accented by wood, European art and lavish floral arrangements. Executive chef Mark Chmielewski, who has also worked in the kitchens of Ambria and Park Avenue Cafe, serves contemporary American cuisine, including roasted lobster with saffron risotto, vanilla-scented breast of duck and steamed Chilean sea bass. Lunch and dinner. Vivere 71 W. Monroe, (312) 332-4040. Famed restaurant designer Jordan Mozer created Vivere's sophisticated dining room, and some locals say the dramatic decor upstages the food. This restaurant, which is owned by the Capitanini family and located in Chicago's Loop, features dishes from various Italian regions that are created by executive chef Marcelo Gallegos. In addition to a large variety of pasta special, the menu also offers fish and game. Lunch and dinner. Wildfire Steak & Chop House 159 W. Erie, (312) 787-9000. The focal point of this LEYE concept is an open kitchen with a dramatic stone wall and an enormous rotisserie that cooks whole chickens and various cuts of meats. Wildfire's decor was created to highlight the restaurant's open-flame style of cooking. Chef Moreno Espinoza serves such American favorites as ahi tuna, prime rib and various steaks, all served with a choice of potato. Portions are generous, and the menu also includes pizzas and fresh seafood. LEYE recently opened a second outpost in Oak Brook, a suburb of Chicago. Dinner daily. Zinfandel 59W. Grand, (312) 527-1818. Chef Susan Goss, who is one of the premier female culinarians in the Midwest, changes her menu monthly at this River North restaurant that is a favorite among many locals. Goss often is praised for her unusual cooking techniques and interesting flavors. The cozy dining room, which features quilted booths, fits with Goss' cooking style. Highlights from Zinfandel's regional American menu range from pot roast to pecan-encrusted mahi-mahi. Desserts include homemade ice creams. Lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays.