Clark brings America the bountiful to Clinton's block

Nation's Restaurant News, Jan 18, 1993 by Peter O. Keegan

Like his new neighbor from Arkansas, Brooklyn-bred chef Patrick Clark is bringing his own brand of Americana to the nation's capital.

Putting down roots across the street from the White House at the Hay-Adams hotel in Washington, Clark is attempting to stir up some culinary excitement by revitalizing and updating the hotel's foodservice facilities.

"Hopefully, this will be my last move for a long time," said Clark, who has been here two months. This is a small hotel, and it's got a clear-cut mission in front of it: To make it one of the best hotels in the country."

Clark brought with him five-year associate sous chef Donnies Sharlein and is learning the ropes from two Hay-Adams veteran sous chefs, Walter Sednew and Shelia Joss.

Clark, who started out at Cafe Luxembourg and Odeon in New York, gained attention as one of the premier American chefs at his restaurant Metro. Alter that he spent two years working with chefRobert Ruggerio at the Beverly Hills Bice and picked up some inspirations from the Californians.

"California definitely influences you; you find you let yourselfgo, creativitywise," Clark said. "I've always been creative, but I've always been into restraining myself also."

With a knack for bringing the best out in American products, Clark described his cooking as seasonal, with a little Italian and some Oriental seasoning. "I was always fascinated by the way the Japanese cooked," he said.

"What I really admire about them is the amazing respect they have for the ingredients; that's one thing I try to instill in my cooks.

Two new dishes on the menu that reflect the fight Oriental influence include an appetizer of corn cakes and smoked salmon with green onions, a wasabi crime fraiche and caviar and an entree of sauteed Maine halibut with black and white sesame seeds, red Maine shrimp and a carrot juice vinaigrette.

In his first foray into the hotel business Clark seems at home in the Hay-Adam's basement kitchen - where there's lots of action. But not too much for the energetic man, who seems unflustered while spearing marinated chickens for his new gas-fired rotisserie as room-service waiters buzz by and breads are being put back at the morning toast station.

Clark outlined his plans for the 143-room, exclusive hotel, which he says will take at least a year to "really come together and click."

The 125-seat ground-floor Adams room, which faces the White House, will be made into the restaurant of the hotel. Sometime after the inauguration, renovation of the stately room will be completed and the currently evolving dinner menu will be installed followed by new American breakfast and lunch menus Clark is working on.

"We want to make it the quintessential American restaurant," he explained.

The John Hay Room, the current fine-dinning room for dinner that has limited seating, will soon undergo major construction and be transformed into a lounge and bar, featuring light fare, such as pastas and sandwiches.

Clark said the Eagle Bar and Grill room will be used only for private parties, and the Hay-Adams won't be doing weddings or any functions for more than 60 people.

Clark is trying to improve the quality of all the hotel's foodservice so that a version of the downsized dinner menu at the Adams Room can be ordered through catering or room service. "If someone gets a great room-service meal, the greater likelihood they will become a potential customer in the dining room," he explained.

Eventual plans for the kitchen include revamping the pastry area, which now features only peasant breads, seven-grain breads, apricot walnut breads and baguettes, to make more room for breads and desserts.

Current desserts include a warm chocolate tart baked to order and goodies from his new ice-cream machine, including bitter chocolate sorbet, maple pecan ice cream and his favorite, vanilla. We use a lot of vanilla beans so that you can see bits all through the ice cream," Clark noted.

The Hay-Adams is a a hot spot for power breakfasts, thanks to its location, and Clark has plans to overhaul the breakfast menu, steering it away from standard egg fare.

"I really love breakfast," said Clark, who was famous for his brunches in New York. "It's got to be eye-opening and great, made with everything fresh.

Clark, inspired by Bradley Ogden of Larsh Creek Inn, plans to make his own sausages, slice his own bacon, create interesting omelets and breakfast breads, and bring scratch waffles and pancakes to new heights.