Savory caramelization: how sweet it is

Nation's Restaurant News, Dec 9, 1996 by Florence Fabricant

Caramelization is what happens when heat causes the sugars in food to darken. Keep the food to the fire long enough, and it will burn, of course. But before that unpalatable stage sets in, an invitingly toasty flavor can be captured, with an appetizing glaze as a bonus.

The technique has long been recognized as a mainstay of dessert-making. Think of caramel custard. Though accomplished chefs always have known how to take advantage of carefully controlled sweet browning to add allure to savory dishes these days they are vaunting this attribute.

Caramel may not whet the diner's appetite for a side dish to go with a steak, but caramelized onions, shallots or whatever appear to be catching on. Especially onions.

The grilled filet mignon at Siena in Pittsburgh comes with caramelized onion tart, stout-flavored mushrooms and demi-glace. At Rustica in Belmont. Mass., a risotto of chicken livers is served with caramelized onions, sage, bacon and baby fava beans. Follonoco in Manhattan partners spicy- sausage with caramelized red onions, fresh mozzarella and tomatoes.

A galette of Provencal herbs, goat cheese and caramelized onions is a first-course choice at Chelsea Bistro and Bar in Manhattan. At Mezza in Williamstown, Mass., couscous with vegetables is paired with a compote of golden raisins, chick peas and caramelized onions. Panned bay scallops are served with caramelized onions and shoestring Granny Smith apples at Something Different in Indianapolis. Herb-crusted lamb loin this operation is enhanced with caramelized pearl onions, toasted caraway whipped potatoes, haricots verts and a vegetable demi-glace.

Caramelized shallots accompany the sliced hanger steak with wild mushrooms at Granville m Manhattan. They also are on the plate with the filet mignon, with exotic mushrooms and herb-roasted potatoes at Tavern on Main Westport, Conn.

Candidates for caramelization do not have to be in the onion family. Les Canaries in San Antonio has come up with balsamic caramelized shiitake mushrooms with sweet Texas onions to serve with seared veal rib-eye. Caramelized turnips? You'll find the at Plouf in San Francisco with the pan-roasted crispy salmon, wilted greens;and sherry vinegar. The acid in the vinegars used in those dishes offers a splendid counterpoint to the sweetness of the caramelized vegetables.

At Maxim's in Manhattan, grilled foie gras on pepper brioche is plated with braised cabbage and caramelized figs. Foie gras is sauteed and served with caramelized apples on a bed of frisee at Bistro Cassis in Glen Cove, N.Y. And Cibo in Manhattan pairs its foie gras with caramelized quince.

The Trellis in Williamsburg, Va., uses caramelized pumpkin over rosemary fettuccine to go with pan-seared duck breast. Savory green lentil and barley "succotash" completes the dish. The Slanted Door in San Francisco serves peppery caramelized shrimp.

Bridging savory and sweet is the caramelized pear served with Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts as an appetizer at In Rotonda in Redwood City, Calif. Another example is the pumpkin soup with caramelized figs and prosciutto at Silks in San Francisco.

Then segue to the dessert list at Peacock Alley in New York's Waldorf-Astoria, where sweet pumpkin ravioli served in caramelized pumpkin broth were on the Thanksgiving menu.

Caramelized sauces on savory dishes include the caramelized rum sauce served with grilled halibut and saffron risotto at Chad's in Santa Barbara. And at Pacific Heights in Coral Gables, Fla., grilled local tuna is served over steamed water spinach with Pinot Noir-simmered onions and a caramelized sweet sake drizzle, for quite a mouthful.

Note, of course that the verb is to caramelize, not caramelize. And the result is caramelization.