Steven Chiappetti: serving one surprise after another at Mango

Nation's Restaurant News, Feb 24, 1997 by Carolyn Walkup

Title: Chef-owner, Mango, Chicago. Birthdate: Nov. 8, 1967. Hometown: Chicago. Education: Kendall College, Evanston, Ill., culinary-arts graduate. Career highlights: Competing in the Bocuse D'Or competitions; opening Mango restaurant; Mango being named best new restaurant of 1996 by peers, in Chicago Magazine; being chef at Costa D'Oro, previously in Chicago.

Why did you go to all the trouble of competing in the Bocuse D'Or?

It proved to me where I stand in a worldly sense. that I am doing everything right. It's just about being a good cook. This competition keeps me aware of good cooking.

Why did you choose the Bocuse d'Or over other competitions?

It's the most prestigious culinary contest in Europe. It goes beyond many of the others because you are dealing with one of the greatest chefs in the world, Paul Bocuse. He set a style of cooking and a way of doing business that are unprecedented.

Did someone encourage you to do this?

Fernand Gutierrez, for whom I worked seven years at the Ritz-Carlton Chicago, has been my pseudo-father and my guide. It's ironic that now I've competed against one of his people from the Four Seasons Mexico City.

Did other chefs coach you?

Jean Banchet flew in from Atlanta to give me guidance, Bernard Cretier drove in from Le Vichyssois in McHenry Country to taste, and Jean Pierre Henri from the Hotel Nikko helped.

How much preparation time was involved?

In the last three months close to 35 hours a week. In Europe they train for this for one year straight.

Do you think it's a disadvantage not to have as much practice time?

I think it's a disadvantage to us. I would like to see it held at a different time of the year.

How did you manage to do that and continue to operate Mango?

I think all my success is due to my staff. Whether I'm here or not, they are the ones who perform the miracles. I have full confidence in them.

How do you describe the kind of food you do at Mango?

The term "American cuisine" has been abused, but I'm an American chef who uses American ingredients. American food is changing continually -- it's more eclectic and a melting pot of nationalities. My father is from Italy and my mother is from Alsace, France. My dishes are somewhat more inspired by those two countries than by anything else.

Was food an important part of your life when you were a child?

Yes. My family comes from generations of butchers on both sides. My father's family still has one of the last remaining slaughterhouses in the city of Chicago. They ship lamb and veal all over the world. My mother is a better cook than I am. She's even helped me out on the Bocuse competition.

What influenced your decision to become a chep?

I always wanted to own a restaurant. I originally was going to study business management. Then I said, "Why do people go to restaurants?" It's for the food. Food is passion. As much love as you put in a dish is what you get back.

Where did the name Mango come from?

It was shorter than "pineapple." Seriously, my partner, George Guggeis, and I wanted something that was simple that said "food that has a lot of taste." It's amazing how many dishes I found mangoes in around the world. It just says it all.

How is your partnership working out?

It's great. A chef can't do it all. What I lack, George [Guggeis] has. It's been a true key to our success. It's important to have somebody to balance off of on the numbers end of it. We're doing about $2 million a year from 55 seats, plus 30 downstairs in the banquet room.

How often do you change the menu?

We change the menu every three weeks, and the artwork changes every three or four weeks. We even have different plateware. So people don't see this restaurant as always being the same.

What's been the most satisfying aspect of operating Mango?

I think it's the greatest form of compliment when a guest returns. People love the fact that they can find a place they can go every week and still be surprised all the time.

How do you feel about the chef from Bice opening a restaurant next door to you?

I think it's great to have more restaurants in the neighborhood and the city. It only brings more people downtown. It's good to have more diversity and range. I thought it was great that Spago came to the city.

What do you do in your spare time?

I paint sometimes. I do woodworking; I make clocks and things like that. My family has a whole wood-working shop. We laid the floor here and did some of the design work.

Do you love working in your restaurant?

Yes. Some chefs tell me they don't want to go back to their restaurants when they have time off. Where else would you want to be? I always get a kick out of that.

What are your future plans?

We're thinking about opening a new project. It will be more of a European-style restaurant. We don't want to repeat Mango. I'm not looking to have 20 restaurants. I'm looking to be the chef of this restaurant.

Chef's tips

* To slice a mango, peel it with a vegetable peeler. Then look for the flat side of the pit. Slice parallel to the flat side and you won't waste any of the fruit.