Tradition of luxury continues as Brenner's fetes 125th year

Nation's Restaurant News, Feb 23, 1998 by James C. Doherty

BADEN-BADEN, Germany -- October marked the 125th anniversary of Brenner's Park-Hotel & Spa here.

Anton Alois Brenner, a master tailor, purchased the property in 1872. A family tradition began when his son, Camille Brenner, bought the hotel from his father for 500,000 gold marks in 1879. By the turn of the century, Brenner's had developed an international reputation for luxury accommodations, outstanding service and world-class cuisine.

In 1941 August Oetker purchased the hotel from his grandmother, a major shareholder in the Brenner Family Trust. The hotel has been under his ownership since then.

Brenner's has been under the able leadership of managing director Richard Schmitz since 1968. During the anniversary celebration, Schmitz said, "Through its long and eventful history, the Brenner has persevered on its singular mission, which is to offer guests elegance, refinement and the utmost level of comfort, service and fine cuisine."

The hotel, which includes 68 guest rooms and 32 suites, employs a staff of 200.

Special dinners, banquets and business conferences are all part of the hotel's capabilities. In 1983 the Brenner Spa was added, providing guests with an entire range of services, including an indoor swimming pool. The Clinic Villa Stephanie, a beauty institute, is located next door.

The hotel guest list includes heads of state, entertainment celebrities and business leaders, along with those seeking a holiday in Baden-Baden. The town, which is located on the western edge of the Black Forest, is famous for the hotsprings baths and has been recognized as a health center for years.

The town is also home to the world-famous Baden-Baden casino, in which roulette and baccarat rule the serious gaming that takes place there.

The streets of Baden-Baden are lined with stores for daytime shopping. Visitors are also able to take day trips to the Black Forest or Strasbourg during their stay.

Brenner's provides the environment and service for a quiet and relaxing visit, prompting Conde Nast Traveler magazine to refer to the hotel as the "Golden Nest in the Black Forest."

The Brenner's two restaurants, terrace dining, banquet facilities and spa operation pose a daily challenge to its foodservice staff. The international mix of guests and customers whose special dietary requirements need to be accommodated -- along, at times, with tight security arrangements -- adds to the excitement for foodservice.

Albert Kellner, the Brenner's veteran executive chef, was named food and beverage manager last May. He has a worldwide reputation and is well-known in the United States, where he has lectured at Johnson & Wales College in Providence, R.I. He also has been a guest chef at the Neiman Marcus Fortnight event.

Kellner said he is committed to education and the training of chefs. As part of Brenner's 125th-anniversary celebration, the hotel plans to host a dinner by the chefs who have trained under him. Many of them are now chefs in top Michelin-rated operations across Europe.

Following Kellner's promotion, Christian Melcher, 36, assumed the responsibilities of executive chef. His formal training includes the Agnes Hamberg Cooking School for Haute Cuisine.

Brenner's serves well over 45,000 meals each year, and its kitchens prepare national cuisines from across the globe. The kitchen must deal with many special requirements as well. On one recent occasion a prime minister brought in two of his own chefs and all of their own foodstuffs. Brenner's kitchen spent time with the two visiting chefs, sharing ideas and recipes, and as it turned out, the prime minister ordered all of his meals off the hotel menu anyway.

Brenner's offers a special spa menu as well as a low-calorie gourmet menu.

The Park Restaurant, an elegant 250-seat dining room that offers views of the adjacent park and river, is the center of the hotel's foodservice action. Under the direction of restaurant manager Michael Pityler, service is attentive and professional. The menu changes each day and features seasonal specialties.

The Black Forest Restaurant, which is under the direction of head waiter Rene Gonnord, is small with a relaxed, casual design.

Brenner's is a five-star dining event, whether it's breakfast, lunch or dinner. Guests can enjoy the hotel's elegant rooms and common areas, but foodservice drives the guest satisfaction. And Brenner's kitchen and the service staff deliver.

After 30 years of dedicated leaderships, Schmitz still finds excitement at Brenner's

BADEN-BADEN, Germany -- it's unusual today to find a hotel executive who has managed the same property for nearly 30 years, a fact that speaks volumes about the capabilities of Richard Schmitz and the success of Brenner's Park-Hotel & Spa.

Schmitz is a man who looks as if he should be the managing director of a world-class hotel, He has a sense of mission and energy, along with a great sense of humor.

When asked if he ever gets bored, Schmitz responds: "As long as I have been in the hotel business, every time I think I have seen it all or experienced everything, something new happens to change my perception. This past year, as an example, we had two international heads of state. There were over 3,000 security personnel surrounding the hotel and in the hotel itself. We were all very busy caring for these political leaders, while at the same time paying particular attention to our regular guests' needs. Always something new is happening."