The Orient Express

Prepared Foods, Dec, 2000 by Sandra Matsukawa Hu

Much more than stir-fry, Asian cuisine employs exotic spices, sauces and many cooking methods.

What spices and seasonings will define American cuisine in the 21st century? While the past century focused on Europe for culinary inspiration, expect a turn to Asia as we look ahead.

Widespread Asian immigration to the States, more ethnic restaurants and increased travel to Asia account for heightened awareness of Asian cuisine. In addition, Americans perceive Asian cooking to be healthier than its Western counterparts. Indeed, Asians themselves attribute health-giving benefits to specific foods. In many Asian cultures, food is a medium that helps to keep the body in harmony and balance.

Pioneered in part by Kikkoman, soy sauce is the first Asian seasoning to reach mainstream status in America. Soy-based Asian flavors are commonly found in supermarkets today--especially in the prepared foods category--where consumers can find teriyaki-flavored rice bowls and noodle bowls by major U.S. food processors.

Many Asian cuisines employ ingredients that have been fermented, dried, or brewed as a means of preservation. These foods develop intense, complex flavors in the process. Soy sauce and fish sauce, two of the most important seasonings of Asia, are such examples. Soy sauce is primarily used in China, Japan and Korea, while fish sauce is more often used in Southeast Asia.

Now comfortable with soy sauce, Americans--at least on both Coasts--are broadening their exploration of other, less familiar Asian flavors. These seasonings include lemongrass, wasabi, fish sauce, chile paste, coconut milk, Asian sesame oil, and other foodstuffs unknown to this part of the world a decade ago, except to Asian immigrants and Asian-Americans.

It is simplistic to suggest a common national cuisine for any Asian country, due to regional, ethnic and other differences, but here is a capsule review of some of the general characteristics:

* China. With more than 3.6 million square miles and broad differences in climate and topography, Chinese cooking runs the gamut from the sophisticated cuisine of Beijing to the spicy-hot dishes of Szechwan and Hunan.

Stir-frying is the most famous Chinese cooking technique, but Chinese cooks also deep fry, pan fry steam, stew, braise, poach, smoke, roast, and barbecue. Another characteristic method is Shanghai-style "red cooking," in which meats are braised in a soy sauce-based liquid, and enhanced with other seasonings, such as wine and ginger. The term, "red cooking," refers to the reddish hue that develops from slow cooking in soy sauce.

Popular spices include cinnamon, cloves, fennel, star anise, and Szechwan peppercorns. Combined, they make a popular spice blend called Chinese five-spice.

The Chinese employ unique sauces that characterize their cuisine. Sweet and slightly hot hoisin sauce is made of soybeans, with vinegar, garlic, sugar and chiles, and is often used in marinades. Sweet, fruity plum sauce--sometimes called duck sauce--is mostly used as a condiment with roast pork and duck. Oyster sauce, which adds body and a sweet-salty, slightly briny flavor, is used as an ingredient in cooking or as a condiment.

Chinese cooks use both light soy--preferred for lighter foods to keep their natural flavor and color--and dark soy, which has more body. There is also a thick soy, which is not soy sauce at all, but more akin to molasses.

* Japan. Simplicity and elegance of presentation characterize Japanese cuisine. The flavors are clean and pure--soy sauce, sake and sugar are prominent flavors. Compared to other Asian sauces, Japanese soy sauce--shoyu--is lighter and more delicate in flavor. Other popular seasonings include mirin (sweet rice wine), dashi (fish stock made with dried bonito and kelp) and miso (fermented soybean paste). Gingerroot, sesame seed and hot pepper add flavor dimension.

Japanese tend to grill, broil, pan fry, poach or simmer. They are fond of one-pot dishes; some are cooked at the table, creating a convivial atmosphere. For all meals, pickles made with gingerroot, daikon, cabbage and other vegetables perk up the taste buds.

* Korea. Bold flavors--Asian sesame oil, garlic, chile peppers and fermented soybean paste--characterize Korean cuisine. The defining food is kim chee, a hot, pungent pickle eaten at every meal and sometimes incorporated as a seasoning in other dishes Red chile pepper and garlic are the dominant flavors in kim chee.

Soy sauce is a primary seasoning in most food preparation, from hearty soups to salads. It is used in marinades for grilled meats, often with garlic, brown sugar, sesame seed or oil, chiles and fresh gingerroot.

* Thailand. Thai food is one of the original fusion cuisines, marrying Chinese, Indian, and other ethnic flavors to the indigenous cooking style. Thai food has an assertive flavor and fragrance with a layering of seasonings.

Fish sauce--nam pla--and shrimp paste add potent flavor to Thai dishes Thai cooks use Thai-style soy sauces--the clear, light soy sauce and the darker thicker soy sauce, as well as a sweet soy sauce. Sour and citrus flavors, palm sugar and tamarind pulp provide distinctive flavor notes. Popular spices include cardamom, dried chiles, cinnamon, cloves, coriander seeds, cumin, curry spices, nutmeg star anise, and white peppercorn.