Today's issues are tomorrow's trends: at a recent show, three important culinary trends could be seen. Look for "collateral dining," nutritious foods with gourmet quality and comfort foods previously known only in certain regions

Prepared Foods, Jan, 2004 by Hugh J. McEvoy

This past year, thousands of restaurant chefs from every major American city met in our nation's capital to attend the American Culinary Federation's (St. Augustine, Fla.) annual conference. The ACF is the world's largest association of professional chefs. Gourmet chefs from Europe, Asia, South America and Africa joined their North American culinary colleagues.

This conference was quite different from those of prior years. For the first time, a number of professional culinary certified chefs--who also hold degrees in dietetics and nutrition--were present.

Chef Kyle Shadix, RD, CCC, from New York, and chef Paula Williams RD, LD, CEC, from Nixa, Mo., were examples of this new trend in cross-disciplinary expertise. (See box "RD to CCC" for acronym definitions.) Additionally, the number of women chefs in the industry is growing, as exemplified by chef Sarah Labensky, CCR president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (Louisville, Ken.). In fact, the Student Chef of the Year, Laura Bellus-Kaltenecker, is a woman.

The number of research chefs and food scientists also is growing rapidly; their numbers far exceeded last year. The trend toward merging food science and culinary art was made crystal clear when Steve Schimoler, president of the Research Chefs Association (Atlanta) announced the formation of a professional alliance between ACF's chefs and the RCA's research chefs.

During the receptions and social events, where the "real" work gets done, three "Super-Issues" were identified. Most professional chefs agreed these primary issues are the driving force behind the culinary trends being seen in our major cities. Restaurant customers are making choices based on these three primary issues. Restaurant menus are changing to reflect those choices.

Time vs. Money

Longer working hours, more working mothers, smaller families and a faster-paced workplace has led to restaurant customers having more money, but less personal time. Meals are eaten more frequently and require less planning. As a result, "collateral dining" has been born.

While the main activity is working, studying, watching entertainment or commuting, the act of eating the meal is becoming a "secondary" activity. Restaurants are serving this need and creating products to do so. Smaller portions are eaten more often and at non-traditional times of day. "Serious" snacks, hand-held snacks that completely replace a meal, are becoming a common menu item in response to this issue. Products that fit this new trend are finding success.

Nutritional Health vs. Culinary Happiness

Just as there is a greater awareness of the importance of proper nutrition, knowledge of the culinary arts also is expanding. The same factors creating the need for collateral dining also ensure consumers have a desire to "treat themselves" as a reward for working hard, and that they can afford to do so. Harry J. Crane, executive chef for Kraft Food Service (Glenview, Ill.), was seen attending seminars on better nutrition based on color! Chefs and food scientists from ADM (Decatur, Ill.), Kellogg's (Battle Creek, Mich.) and ConAgra Foods (Omaha, Neb.) all were overheard debating this issue.

The huge success of cable TV food networks and cooking shows has educated America's palate. Yet, as the Baby Boomers grow older, health and nutrition become ever more important. These issues also are interesting to younger customers, who have grown up in a world filled with better nutritional education.

The result is demand for "gourmet nutrition," foods that are innately healthy, yet measure up to gourmet standards. Chefs everywhere are embracing organic ingredients and sustainable fanning. Restaurant patrons are smiling and listening as the wait staff describes heirloom vegetables and healthy menu items. Master chefs are studying nutrition and putting that newfound knowledge to good use on the menu. And restaurant customers are voting with their wallets.

Losing weight is becoming less important than "maintaining" a healthy diet. And healthy is being seen as fresh, natural and, in some cases, organic. Above all, these new food-savvy customers demand gourmet taste, texture and appearance. "Low-fat" is becoming less important than the type of oils being used. Big, "low-cal" portions are being replaced with smaller portions of superior quality. Gourmet is not seen as bad, "gluttony" is bad.

Today's consumers want to "have their (smaller portions of real) cake ... and eat it, too." Chef Richard Naglich, CEC, Allen Brothers Fine Meats (Chicago), shares his insights regarding this trend. "Today's customers are far more educated regarding the quality of foods. People really can tell the difference between Choice beef and Prime. Ten years ago, that may not have been true. Now people want rich, intense flavor. Customers are beginning to want flavor over quantity. Smaller portions of much, much better meats provide the satisfaction everyone wants. And yet the amount of fat and calories eaten are actually much less than in the past."