Dark knight: under-utilized and under-appreciated, dark meat poultry has finally triumphed on menus where chefs celebrate its depth, flavor and versatility

Prepared Foods, Jan, 2004 by Toni Lydecker

Editor's Note: The following two articles appeared in the Summer 2003 issue of Plate magazine, a foodservice publication that focuses on culinary trends and recipe ideas for professional chefs and other menu decision makers. Some of the recipes mentioned in the articles do not appear in this issue, but appeared in the original magazine. For more information, visit www.plateonline.com.

White meat or dark? When it comes to preference, chefs and customers typically part ways. "I prefer dark meat, but most of my customers would vote the other way," says Chris Keff, chef/owner of Seattle's Fandango.

Chef John Caputo of Bin 36 in Chicago confirms what is common knowledge among chefs: Dark-meat poultry has the reputation of being somehow inferior to white meat. "Our customers--especially those in our suburban location--are convinced that white meat is a better cut,'" he says. "But chefs know that dark meat has more flavor, so it's frustrating."

Only in America is the demand for white-meat chicken and turkey so lopsided. Although dark meat poultry has long been the centerpiece in a range of cuisines, from Latin to Asian to Mediterranean, consumers here eat more than twice as much white meat as dark (15.8 billion pounds in 2002, versus 6.5 billion pounds).

Clearly, dark meat has an image problem. Most consumers cite calories as a chief concern, yet, according to the USDA, the difference is negligible. A boneless, skinless chicken thigh has 50 calories per ounce, as opposed to 46 calories per ounce for boneless, skinless breast meat.

But, through creative menu strategies and just plain good recipes, chefs are increasingly turning on customers to the more intense flavor and moistness of dark meat. In doing so, they're able to capitalize on an ingredient that is not only versatile, but forgiving when there's a need to hold or reheat. And the cost is so modest--about one-third that of white meat--that operators can pass some of the savings on to the customers and still make a healthy profit.

The Thighs Have It

A preference for dark meat is not merely personal, but a matter of tradition for David Fortuna, chef/owner of Wholly Ravioli, Sacramento, Calif. Ever since his family's first restaurant was opened in 1945, its members have preached the virtues of chicken thighs. "In Italy you use all parts of the chicken," he says. "Dark meat has a more 'chickeny' flavor, and it absorbs marinades and holds sauces better than breast meat."

For one specialty, chicken alla Maria ($16.99), thighs are sauteed with onion and, just before service, rethermalized in Alfredo sauce, garnished with plumped sun-dried tomatoes and bedded on fettuccine. For another, skinless, boneless chicken thighs are charbroiled with summer squash and served over salad greens with house Italian dressing ($15.99). Dark meat also dominates the chicken cacciatora. And when it's time to make chicken stock for minestrone and other dishes, skinless and boneless thighs yield a stock that is virtually tat tree and easy to strain.

Sometimes big ideas come in bite-sized packages. Among the bar food selections at tapas eatery La Boca, in Norfolk, Va., are marinated, pan-fried chicken thighs called parilla de polio ($4.95).

Similarly, at Zale Lipshy and St. Paul University Hospitals in Dallas, ready-made thigh skewers, each with about 2 ounces of boneless, skinless meat, are brushed with a blend of olive oil, oregano, salt and pepper, then grilled briefly and finished in the oven. "We can count the number of skewers per customer, making it possible to put this on our self-service Mediterranean bar," says Mary Kimbrough, corporate director of nutrition services. "The protein portion is what costs--we don't worry too much about the rest." A standard order consists of two skewers ($4.25), accompanied by grilled pita, hummus, tabbouleh, cucumber sauce and tomatoes.

Familiarity Breeds Content

Staying within customers' comfort zone works best for foodservice operations like Zale Lipshy. "We serve a lot of bone-in chicken because customers here in Texas prefer it," Kimbrough says. Roasted, fried or barbecued chicken quarters sell well, and Kimbrough estimates that at least 40% of customers choose dark meat.

Another dish that fits the "familiar foods with flair" slogan is Lackmann Culinary Services' turkey meatloaf ($3.95). Once it's sliced, customers of the Clearwater, Fla.-based B&I contractor can see a luxurious, colorful filling of spinach, porcini mushrooms, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese.

A midday specialty at Chicago's Bin 36 is smoked chicken salad--made with thighs only. Chef Caputo brines, smokes and shreds the meat and arranges it over mixed salad greens with a creamy mustard dressing, candied walnuts and goat cheese ($9).

Why Confit Fits

"Once upon a time, the purpose of confit was to preserve poultry. Now, it's more about flavor," says Tony Maws, chef of Craigie Street Bistrot, Cambridge, Mass. He begins by smothering chicken legs in a garlic, shallot and herb mixture. After two days, the pieces are wiped clean and immersed in duck fat (ordered in bulk) to simmer until fork-tender. A week or so later, the confit is ready for service.