Dark knight: under-utilized and under-appreciated, dark meat poultry has finally triumphed on menus where chefs celebrate its depth, flavor and versatility

Prepared Foods, Jan, 2004 by Toni Lydecker

The use of smoke and grill flavors provides food formulators, "the ability to re-create the subtle, yet distinctive, nuances of specific cooking methods, adding depth and complexity to dark meat poultry items," says R.J. Foster, senior food technologist at a flavor company. "Low levels of mesquite smoke, for example, bring fire-roasted character to chorizo-style sausages made entirely from ground chicken thigh meat."

He adds, "Incorporation of smoky or grilled notes in a basic marinade transforms bland chicken pieces into robust smoky chicken ... even fully cooked and reheated items look and taste as if they are right out of the smoker, while natural antioxidants within the smoke flavors prevent the worm-aver taste often associated with pre-cooked poultry."

--Julia M. Gallo-Torres, Managing Editor

Spinach-stuffed Turkey Meatloaf

Chef Gerard Marquetty, Lackmann Culinary Services, Clearwater, Fla.

Yield: 10 servings of two 2-ounce slices

Porcini mushrooms, coarsely chopped      1 C
Onion, chopped                           1/4 C
Garlic, minced                           2 tsp
Olive oil                                1/4 C
Spinach, cooked, chopped                 10 Oz
So                                       3/4 tsp
Freshly ground black pepper              1/2 tsp
Whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded   1/2 C
Parmesan cheese, grated                  1/2 C
Turkey, ground                           1 Lb
Quick-cooking eats, uncooked             3/4 C
Milk                                     1/2 C
Egg, large                               1 each
Fresh basil                              1 tsp
Fresh oregano                            1 tsp

1. Saute mushrooms, onion and garlic in o saute pan over medium
heat. Remove from heal, drain pan of excess juices. Add in spinach,
salt, pepper, 1/4 cup of the mozzarella cheese and the Parmesan
cheese. Reserve.

2. Combine ground turkey and remaining ingredients in a large mixing
bowl. Spoon 2/3 of mixture into a lightly greased hotel pan.
Make a 7 x 1 1/2-inch indentation lengthwise down the center of
the turkey mixture; fill with spinach mixture. Spoon remaining
turkey mixture on top and press edges to seal.

3. Bake at 350 degrees F until cooked through, about 35 minutes.
Sprinkle remaining 1/4 cup of mozzarella cheese on top of the loaf
and bake until cheese melts, several more minutes. Remove from
pan; let rest 5 minutes before serving.

Menu price: $3.95; food cost/serving 32%

Chicken Cordon New

Thanks to a renewed interest in retro dishes, menus are suddenly sprouting a decades' old classic--chicken cordon bleu--that uses the seductive combination of cheese and ham not only to heighten flavor but seal in juices, making chicken breast as juicy and flavorful as chicken thigh.

* Baldini's Sports Casino, Reno, Nev., breakfast brunch ($8.99 prix fixe)

* Rail City Casino, Sparks, Nev., lunch and dinner (prix fixe $7.95)

* Marsh Supermarket's Cafe, Bloomington, Ind. ($29.99)

* Seven Hills Bar & Grill, Las Vegas, chicken cordon bleu sandwich ($6.75)