Developing culinary trends in Paris: a chef returns to Paris and observes culinary tradition in transition

Prepared Foods, Sept, 2004 by J. Hugh McEvoy

The foundations of gourmet cuisine may be changing. Open the James Beard Award-winning Indian cookbook From Curries to Kebabs: Recipes from the Indian Spice Trail by Madhur Jaffrey. Turn to the index, start at "A" and immediately note the French cooking term "aubergine" (oh-behr-ZHEEN) eggplant. The term is not British, Italian or even Latin. Pick up the latest, bestselling bread book, and there are the terms "baguette, batard, boule, brioche." The names of our breads are French. In Vietnam, they eat sauce "Bearnaise." In New Zealand, manufacturers use "sous-vide" techniques to process lamb. Every great chef knows that French cuisine--its techniques, tastes and terms--are the real foundation of modern global cuisine.

The influence of French culinary art is seen and felt in every corner of the world. Every cooking student in every country learns the basics of French cuisine on the way to becoming a chef. Even modern food processing owes a nod to French food science ... remember pasteurization?

Shortly after the French Revolution, many great French chefs found themselves out of work. Prior to French independence, only the royal families could afford the luxury of a professional chef and culinary support staff. When the guillotine "liberated" the royal families, much of their wealth also was liberated and found its way to the new middle class. Chefs opened restaurants that were patronized by the nouveaux rich. The pioneer chefs became celebrities of their day; some named dishes after themselves. The proof of how good these were is in how they have stood the test of time. Hollandaise, veloute, morney: these and many more sauces, some developed in the 1800s, are still in use. (How many food developers believe the products they are working on still will be sold in 2303?)

Yet, even in the birthplace of gourmet cuisine, times are changing.

Factors Impacting the French Culinary Scene

As a young chef visiting Paris for the first time 20 years ago, this author was spellbound. Here were all the great foods and the famous restaurants that had been studied and read about. How and what the French ate and how it was prepared made lasting impressions. A few weeks ago, a return to Paris found the same cafes and restaurants. Again, there was amazement as well as amusement at the changes observed. New dining and food preparation trends were clear to see, some even imported from America!

In 1993, the Maastrict Treaty established the European Union. While European countries have not yet put away their age-old differences, the barriers truly have come down in one area. Food TV is universally accepted. Whether in Paris, New York City or Porte Monte (Chile), one can see Rick Bayless teaching the joys of Mexican gourmet cuisine. Emeril Lagasse is showing the world how wonderful American barbecue is, and Alton Brown is helping the world understand basic cooking science.

Additionally, an astounding array of recipes is free and immediately available to anyone with an Internet connection. This open exchange of culinary entertainment, along with the opening of trade barriers, has allowed new and exotic foods to cross Europe's once-closed borders. It has led to a new age of culinary awareness and acceptance. Here are a few sites and sounds now seen in Paris:

* Tapas and Tex-Mex. The Latina Cafe (Paris) sits front and center in the very heart of Paris. Situated at 114 Avenue des Champs Elysees, there is perhaps no better restaurant location in the City of Lights. Primarily a tapas/Latino restaurant, one entire section of their menu is also devoted to fajitas. Throughout Paris, a great number of Latin, tapas and Tex-Mex concepts can be seen doing brisk business. Mexican cuisine clearly has found its way to France.

* Japanese/Asian. The menu of the international French chain, Hotel Sofitel (Accor, Paris)--whether in Paris or Chicago--clearly shows that Japan has made its mark on French cuisine. Patrick Filatre, general manager of the Chicago property, says, "The style, beauty and attention to detail seen in Japanese cuisine appeals to French diners. The insistence on absolutely fresh ingredients ensures the highest possible quality. Japanese cooking techniques can be seen in restaurants the world over." The flavors and ingredients of Asia, in general, are becoming standard everywhere.

* Fast food, American style. The secret shame of most French gourmands is this: citizens of France love American-style fast food. Though they passionately argue against this fact, the biggest growth area for McDonald's (Oak Brook, Ill.) in Europe has been France. Everywhere, Parisians can be seen lining up for a Big Mac and Filet-O-Fish.

At least one European competitor also has been quick to note that value, cleanliness, speed and consistency truly do have universal appeal. Quick (Berchem, Belgium), a hamburger restaurant that began in Brussels, Belgium, quickly found success and now has more than 100 restaurants in that country.

However, this American-style fast food concept has found even greater success in France, where there are over 300 outlets.