Developing culinary trends in Paris: a chef returns to Paris and observes culinary tradition in transition

Prepared Foods, Sept, 2004 by J. Hugh McEvoy

Hot dogs, pizza, fried chicken and french fries also can be found in every part of Paris. When European corporations begin "knocking off" successful American restaurant concepts, those trends are in France and the E.U. to stay.

Certified Organic

Perhaps the "hottest" trend seen today in Paris is the move toward organic foods and sustainable agriculture. Mad Cow Disease, cancer scares and a never-ending line of international news stories detailing the dangers of food have driven the movement toward a more natural way of eating. Ask Parisians for their opinion on the subject, and they will offer a lively debate. Given a choice, every Frenchman will take the product bearing the Certifie Agriculture Biologique.

At many locations throughout Paris, Moisan (a natural, artisan bakery chain based in Paris) sells le pain au naturel--only organic breads and pastries. The prices at these shops are much higher than those at the hundreds of corner bakers found throughout Paris. Yet customers queue outside these shops for the chance to buy fresh-baked "certified organic" breads.

In supermarkets and small shops all over France, the certified organic label is seen on foods of every type. Restaurants are beginning to designate such products on their menus. This is not a short-lived fad; some of these products have been on shelves for decades.

Future Culinary Trends

Chaine des Rotisseurs (Paris) is the world's oldest and, perhaps, most prestigious gourmet society. Created in 1248 by order of the king of France, it was originally a royal guild of chefs skilled enough to cook for the royal family. Membership in the Chaine (pronounced "shen") is by invitation only. After a rigorous peer review, a smart number of elite chefs and gourmets are inducted into this Paris-based group every year. Being in the food business in continuous operation for nearly 700 years, gives an organization a unique outlook regarding food fads and trends.

Bruno Descamps, a member of the society, owns and operates Quintesence--Epicerie Fine (Paris), one of the city's most upscale and trendy gourmet food shops. Located a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tower, Descamps has his finger on the pulse of European culinary trends. He says, "The Tex-Mex trend is coming to an end. Tapas are dead. The trend now is toward more-sophisticated, gourmet Latino cuisine. Classic Spanish cuisine is beginning to be the trend, in that area."

"The best restaurants in Paris are going away from melded, complex flavors and sauces," Descamps believes. "We are seeing a new style of cooking and presentation being developed. Each dish is being built with individual distinct layers of flavors and texture. Brighter, individual colors are being seen. Sauces, when used, are being kept separate, and the flavors and colors are clear and identifiable from the other items on the plate. Today, people want to know what they are eating. They want to be able to tell what they are putting into their mouths. They are using fresh, organic ingredients, and everyone wants you to know it."