Dining Chicago style: dishing up who's new and what's exciting in Chicago's ever-vibrant and always booming dining scene - Guide to the Worldwide Food Expo

Dairy Foods, Oct 15, 1997

A reconfigured Lake Shore Drive, the show's spacious digs at McCormick Place and yet another area code aren't all that's new to Chicago since the 1995 food and dairy MegaShow. Restaurant openings carry on at a heady pace - six or seven a month by one unofficial count - ensuring that no one will head home bored or hungry.

If there is a dominant theme in the multifarious mix of openings, bistro would get this year's nod. But bistros are only part of the Chicago restaurant picture. Other trends include more cigars, more martinis and, happily, more culinary variety and creativity than ever.

Here's a rundown on some notable newcomers. Restaurant listings provide cost guidelines based on the following price categories - for appetizer, entree and one cocktail - $ = less than $15; $$ = $25; $$$ = $25 to $50; $$$$ = more than $50.)

BISTROT ZINC

3443 N. Southport Ave. Big and bustling, this spot takes its name from the French-made bar, a burnished expanse of hand-tooled metal that anchors the front room. Head to the back, though, where an artful blend of insouciance and polished professionalism defines the dining room.

Chef Rene Bajeux adheres to tradition with moules mariniere, steak frites, poulet grandmere and duck confit. Plats du jour come with offbeat touches - steak au poivre is served with Brie-enriched mashed potatoes, for instance. Side dishes, such as spaetzle, turnip sauerkraut and, if you ask, an order of bacon, are sublime. $$$; (773) 281-3443

BROWN DOG TAVERN

531 N. Wells St. A cute name and logo, publike decor and heavy emphasis on regional beers might obscure the fact that this is a bona fide restaurant, serving contemporary, casual American fare.

For starters? O-rings, cornmeal calamari with jalapeno mayo, and tuna short-stack (a layering of rare tuna and vegetables). Entrees express an all-embracing approach. Midwestern shore lunch-style wall- eye dinner, 1-pound porterhouse and Asian barbecued chicken show that the dog can travel. $$; (312) 645-1255.

THE CAPITAL GRILLE

633 N. St. Clair St. Chicago is known for superlative steakhouses, and another contender is seeking to sate meat eaters' appetites. The Capital Grille is a unit of a small Providence, R.I.-based chain.

Dry-aged steaks are the big draw, served in highly polished, antique-filled surroundings. Shrimp cocktail, crab cakes and lobster are high-end appetizers. Steaks, chops and fresh seafood fill the grill. Side dishes include baked potatoes nearly the size of a football as well as the ubiquitous creamed spinach but also fresh asparagus and roasted mushrooms. The wine list goes on for pages, and regular guests can even arrange to store their vintage selections here for later enjoyment. $$$; (312) 337-9400.

CONFUSION

1616 N. Damen Ave. Don't be confused about the name. It's word-play apropos of the fusion-style cooking served at this spare, open spot in the endlessly hip Bucktown neighborhood.

Chef Kevin Shikami has cobbled together an East-meets-West menu, peppered with a dizzying array of worldly influences, including Japanese, Chinese, Italian, French, Mexican and American. Seared tuna is bold with the taste of wasabi, grilled chicken flaunts fresh basil and chipotles, duck breast pairs with confit and Chinese spices. $$$; (773) 772-7100.

CYRANO'S BISTRO? & WINE BAR

546 N. Wells St. Co-owner/chef Didier Durand was born in Bergerac, France, hence the name of this stylish spot. Two rooms, washed in sunny Provencal colors, dim as the day draws to a close, and by nightfall, flickering candles and soft background music make this a dreamy spot.

Durand has good instincts about what constitutes bistro fare. Duck rillettes, buttery escargot and silky chicken liver mousse show up as appetizers. Main courses are delectably varied. Chicken, duck and rabbit are rotisserie-cooked; scallops are seared and served with porcini-infused mashed potatoes; bouillabaisse and cassoulet arrive in clouds of heady aromas. $$; (312) 467-0546.

IRON MIKE'S GRILL!

100 E. Chestnut St. Days before his namesake restaurant's official kickoff, Iron Mike Ditka signed on as coach of pro football's New Orleans Saints. The question is, how loyal will Bears fans be to a beloved ex-coach who skips town?

In the meantime, Iron Mike's aims for sports-minded types whose wallets and tastes have outgrown the corner bar. In clubby digs and surrounded by cigar smoke and sports paraphernalia, diners can order what's described as American bistro fare. That means appetizers such as lump crab and crawdaddy pancakes, oyster "shots" and curried chicken cakes. $$$; (312) 587-8989.

LE COLONIAL

937 N. Rush St. Rent the movie Indochine before dining here to get a sense of the French colonial Vietnam that inspires this trendy eatery. The atmosphere is evocative, with pressed-tin ceilings, wood-slat shutters, and cool tropical colors against dark wood tones. The Vietnamese fare is exotic and offbeat. Openers of grilled baby back ribs with lemon grass and grilled shrimp are approachable for timid palates while spicy beef salad with basil and lemon grass calls out to adventuresome types. Main courses are scintillating: Consider choices such as ginger-marinated roast duck with tamarind sauce and sole steamed in banana leaves and served with lemon grass and coconut sauce. $$$; (312) 255-0088.