Can cottage cheese recover? A variety of factors contribute to 20 year of declining consumption

Dairy Foods, July, 1990 by Clem Honer

Can Cottage Cheese Recover?

A variety of factors contribute to 20 years of declining consumption

For some time now, cottage cheese has been fading into the background in the dairy case. Once an "in" product, its position has been challenged by the growth of yogurt, the use of ricotta cheese for cooking, and the trend toward low-calorie foods.

Industry sources also bemoan inconsistent product quality, decreased curd-to-dressing ratio, and a lack of marketing support. As a result, per capita consumption has been declining over the last two decades, despite the product's rating as a valuable source of milk protein.

These opinions were revealed by a California Milk Advisory Board (CMAB) consumer focus study. Eight sessions were held in Los Angeles and San Francisco. Some of the participants labeled cottage cheese as boring, inconvenient and bland in flavor--and even commented on the lack of imagination in carton graphics. Some also suggested new flavor combinations.

The attitude survey was initiated by CMAB because California, one of the leading states in cottage cheese consumption, has endured declining product production for the last two decades. In fact, from 1970 to 1989, total cottage cheese production in California dropped nearly 30 percent, despite the state's population increase during the same time. However, the volume of lowfat cottage cheese doubled during this period and now represents half of the total volume of cottage cheese. Meanwhile, fullfat (4-percent) product dropped off nearly 60 percent and more than neutralized the gain in lowfat.

Similar results appear nationwide. For example, total cottage cheese consumption declined 7 percent between 1980 and 1988, based on U.S. Department of Agriculture data. However since the curd-to-dressing ratio decreased during the same period, a greater decline occurred in the actual production of cottage cheese curd.

Canadian consumers are following the same trend. "Cottage cheese in Canada is competing with other cheese tastes coming from Europe, as well as with yogurt," says Pierre Aubin, manager of dairy product marketing for Ontario-based Agriculture-Canada. "Like the States, 4-percent cottage cheese is declining faster than lowfat (2-percent) is increasing. As a result, the per-capita consumption of cottage cheese in Canada is following the U.S. trend and at present is leveling off," Aubin says.

Back in the United States, there is no shortage of explanations for the dramatic shift in consumer acceptance.

Advertising non-support

One of the most-often cited causes of the problem is the lack of advertising support for cottage cheese. "In areas that follow promotional programs, sales of cottage cheese are still increasing," Aubin points out. "I don't think that the dairy industry is advertising cottage cheese enough."

Other sources agree. "The dairy industry doesn't promote and advertise cottage cheese as it once did, especially to emphasize the protein value of the product," says Bill Born, a cultured products specialist with Dean Foods, Franklin Park, Ill.

Adds Clyde McCampbell of O-AT-KA Milk Products, Batavia, N.Y.: "When have you seen cottage cheese advertised lately?"

Meanwhile, rising cottage cheese prices also have affected product support. "We normally experience a surge in cottage cheese sales after the Christmas holidays, but it didn't happen this year," says Jim Newell, vice president of dairy operations at Certified Grocers of Illinois, Chicago. "As the price of cottage cheese increased, we noticed that retailers spent less money advertising cottage cheese. As a result cottage cheese sales dropped off."

Giving the product more advertising support would inject new life into the category, sources say. But plant operators must address the issue of product quality.

Too much variation

"Despite the slumping cottage cheese sales, the quality has never been better," insists Dean's Born. "Much credit for this must be given to enclosed systems that protect the product from airborne contamination after cooking."

However, Born admits that there is too much variation within brand names at the dairy case. "You even find some variations within the product manufactured by the same company, though cottage cheese uniformity has improved in recent years," he says.

This opinion is echoed by other manufacturers. "Traveling over the country one finds wide variations in the curd identity, product consistency and flavor in the product," says Milton Scherpf, production director of Quality Chekd Dairy Products Association, Naperville, Ill.

"Even different brands within the same store vary in this respect. Part of this problem is due to the change in curd-to-dressing ratio that has added more dressing in the present cottage cheese."

Some manufacturers believe that efforts to increase the shelflife of cottage cheese has contributed to the inconsistency.

"Centralization of cottage cheese plants seeking a wider marketing area through warehouse distribution has forced cottage cheese plants to become more automated and to employ more enclosed product handling systems. This has forced plants to push for longer shelflife in the product," says Jim Bender, vice president of research for Crowley Foods Co., Binghamton, N.Y.