Styling products volumize hair sales

Drug Store News, July 17, 2000 by Andrea M. Grossman

Styling products are still making waves--or curls for that matter--in the drug, food and mass channels. Last year the category grew 8.8 percent, thanks in large part to fashion-forward hair styling trends requiring more product than ever to make hair appear naturally gorgeous. This year manufacturers are continuing to focus on styling products, some of which are looking to meet untapped sales growth in the drug channel. While food store and mass store sales of styling product grew 8.6 percent and 14 percent, respectively, drug store sales inched up only 2 percent.

Companies such as Schwarzkopf & Dep are focusing on the male consumer. Others are keeping their eyes on fashion runways so that their new product launches help consumers achieve the hottest hair care trends.

Advanced Research Labs, maker of Citr[acute{e}] Shine, last year recorded double-digit sales increases. Broader distribution mostly contributed to the company's 49 percent sales growth in the drug, food and mass channels (Citr[acute{e}] Shine recently landed on Kmart and Target shelves). However, Kellie Beardsley, brand manager for Citr[acute{e}] Shine, said the company made bigger strides in launching product that coincided with hair care trends. "It used to be that there were just the basic gels, but now we've taken a step towards salon-esque products," Beardsley said. She pointed to Citr[acute{e}] Shine's new Texture Style Potion as a classic example. "It's a combination of a texturing cr[grave{e}]me and a conditioner. Women don't want a stiff look," she said. To achieve shiny and slick looks, Citr[acute{e}] Shine has launched Glossing Wax. For hair in need of body, there's Citr[acute{e}] Shine's Curling Balm. All three retail for $3.99 each and are on shelves now.

Dep Corp.'s LA Looks remains the top-selling hair styling brand with more than $36 million in sales recorded last year in the drug, food and mass channels, according to Information Resources Inc. LA Looks experienced growth in all three channels, whereas the Dep brand--still in the Top 10--posted nearly 17 percent sales growth in the mass channel. Dennis Gurka, vice president of sales for Schwarzkopf & Dep, said sales are continuing to rise. "This year our sales are up dramatically, especially in the mass class of trade," Gurka said. To continue the sales growth, Gurka said the company will focus on the male consumer, who according to consumer research uses gel more often than female consumers.

"Our most recent numbers show that we are getting more male usage in LA Looks than ever before. Most of the heavy users tend to be male. [Subsequently] our advertising may become more unisex. We've also seen that men prefer their gel products in a tube. We are exploring opportunities to act on that," Gurka said.

He reiterated that Dep's pockets are much deeper since German-based Henkel bought it more than a year ago. There are also larger resources for technology.

"We are trying very hard to find a hair spray formula that works better than what is currently out there. As most people already know, hair spray products are less effective than they used to be. [Fortunately] we have access to a deep R&D department in Henkel. They have roots in the adhesive industry and we are looking for a formula that would work on the hair care side," Gurka said.

John Frieda, on the other hand, continues to focus its efforts primarily in the drug channel, as nearly 48 percent of its business is in drug stores. Frieda, from its initial launch into the mass arena, addressed hair care needs much in the same way cosmetic companies focus on skin care needs. "Many hair care products for some reason don't look at hair care the same way cosmetic companies look at skin care. In skin care, there are so many variants available for dry, acne prone, oily, normal-to-oily and normal skin types. But it fits John Frieda's professional heritage to address hair care with a prescriptive view," said Gail Federici, president of John Frieda. The company's philosophy models itself after its rich experience in professional hair care, one that many other consumer giants just can't do.

"People with straight hair have certain hair concerns, while people with frizzy hair have another set of hair concerns. Prior to Frizz Ease, it was believed that the only hair concerns out there were by people with straight hair who wanted more body. Frizz Ease changed that," Federici said.

The grass roots movement for John Frieda products emerged further when Sheer Blonde, a complete line of hair care products made specifically for blondes, launched last year and after just six months on the market ranked in the Top 10.

This season Frieda has put together a kit called Sun, Sea and Pool Survival Kit, each containing three SKUs addressing either fine to normal hair, frizzy hair or blonde hair. For fall, back-to-school kits are planned to target teens. Each kit looks like a little book that contains four packettes of product designed to help achieve different hair- styles. A styling book is also included, as well as a manufacturer's coupon. The kits will retail for $4.99.