Myths of minerality

Wines & Vines, Dec, 2006 by Tim Patterson

The leading candidate in ongoing research for an explanation of minerality is, in fact, part of the mineral kingdom, one of the few downright famous for its odor: sulfur. In his recent book, The Science of Wine (University of California Press, 2005), Jamie Goode pulls together the findings and hypotheses from a number of European researchers suggesting that what is called minerality is likely related to low levels of a number of sulfur-based compounds, especially likely to occur in reductive (highly oxygen-restricted) winemaking or under conditions of nutrient stress in yeast during fermentation.

Another line of explanation links the perception of minerality with high acidity. Besides thinking minerality has little to do with "sucking on stones," Ann Noble suspects acidity may be involved: "I personally think it (minerality) implies 'austere.' Flavor with 'tight fruit,' high acid. Temporally, the aroma and taste are sharp, quick in onset and do not linger."

It seems hardly coincidental that Germany, known for high acid wines, reductive winemaking and chronic nutrient deficiencies in wine musts, should also be the source of so many wines identified by those who love them as highly mineral.

Without an agreed-upon standard, theories about where minerality comes from are bound to remain speculative. But the possibility that minerality stems not from the fixed characteristics of the vineyard but from compounds that can be controlled in the cellar should be cause for optimism. If emanations of slate can only be derived from slate soils, most of the winegrowing world is out of luck. But if this desirable property is due to the level of acidity or the presence of one or another sulfur compound that can be encouraged or discouraged, so much the better.

The prospect: less romance, more minerality.

HIGHLIGHTS

* The desirable wine characteristic of minerality is only vaguely defined and not well understood. In fact, the one thing we do know is that it has very little to do with minerals.

* Part of the difficulty in finding a reliable, standard mineral reference is that, by and large, minerals don't have much smell at all. The scent of a rock-strewn patch of the great outdoors may be memorable; a single, clean rock in your hand is almost guaranteed to be odor-free.

* Another line of explanation links the perception of minerality with high acidity. Besides thinking minerality has little to do with "sucking on stones," Dr. Ann Noble suspects acidity may be involved.

(Tim Patterson writes for a cuvee of publications about adult beverages--and makes his own--in Berkeley, Calif., where the wine country meets what's left of the '60s. He may be contacted through edit@winesandvines.com.)