Look back to the future

Wines & Vines, Jan, 2003 by Al Cribari

Apropros of which is the latest market update from Turrentine Wine Brokerage. "One third of the wine sold in the United States goes for more than $6 per bottle. Two thirds goes for less than $6. The under $6 business is a train wreck. On the other hand, the over $6 category is one of the fastest growing pieces of business of any kind in the United States right now!" Interesting news. So, let's everyone raise prices to $6.99, minimum!

"Korbel Has Grappa, Too." However, it is sold only through their winery retail room. But, as I recall from my investigation of grappa recipes, Greg Gessner, Korbel winemaker, cheated a bit. He added to the Pinot noir pomace some Pinot press wine. Doesn't that spoil (lessen) the "musty" grappa taste? I cannot understand the interest in this lowbrow product anyway. Yes. I know that "white goods" were doing well and "brown" not, but grappa? My dad, who would produce and try to sell anything made from grapes, disdained grappa. 'Nuff said.

A definitive article by Larry Walker on corks and cork quality. Seems that our own Bruce Scott of Scott Labs, and Curt Goodsill of Lafitte Cork and Capsule met with the Portuguese cork producers to investigate ways to control and improve the quality of cork closures. Corks were always a big headache to me (both as a consumer and winemaker), and I had always hoped that screwcaps would take over. But then, I'm not much of a romanticist about wine.

"Steve Cousins: the next Robert Mondavi?" Wow! As a fellow Santa Clara University alumnus, I'm all for Steve (of Buena Vista Estate) to fill Mondavi's shoes, but it will take much more than a lot of wishing. Robert M. is one hell of a PR genius, and he has 50-plus years of experience.

There is also a fine article on "Pinot noir's special requirements," by David W. Graves. The variety seemed to cause much deep thought. Strangely but happily, we at our Evergreen vineyard had no problems with our particular clone, except when my uncle insisted on leaving the grapes hang until "the bees started to invade." It made a great wine (one of my very favorites) and one that Paul Masson deemed very desirable, even though they did not want to bottle it as a varietal.

Again, there was an article by Elisabeth Holmgren of Wine Institute on "Health Issues." While there is nothing much new in the article, it is the kind of carefully documented scientific opinion that the Drys cannot refute or beggar. In short, great stuff.

Tasting Note: Having been sent a bottle of Grey Goose "Le Citron" lemon-infused vodka (in a beautiful package), I saved it to taste with our buddies at my wife's club's annual beach party. Unfortunately for the Goose, by far most of the people drank wine. Of the 10 who had a preprandial drink of spirits, six had vodka. But the Goose was well received. I found it a terrific product. It makes a great martini if you like yours up and with a twist. And I do.

"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it."

George Santayana.

Sooooo, remember to read this column!