Hawaii: a food and wine destination?

Wines & Vines, March, 1999 by Ann Walker

Part of Chambers & Chambers presence in Hawaii is the annual Winter Wine Escape, held in November at the Mauna Kea Resort on the Big Island.

"Last year was the seventh year for the Festival," Chambers said. "this year we had 32 wineries on hand for tasting and we held tastings on all of the islands."

As for the overall market in Hawaii, she said that just now Hawaii was in a real recession, but even at that November and December were very good months for Chamber & Chambers in Hawaii.

"I've watched the market grow from being very insignificant to a pretty strong market. I think the local buyers have come a long way, and the development of a real Hawaiian regional cuisine has helped, too."

Chambers said their Hawaiian book was quite a bit larger than the Northern California book. "We represent wineries there that either have another distributor in California or who go direct."

She said that much of the Hawaiian wine market was driven by tourism. "You see more label buying in Hawaii than in Northern California. Having said that, I must also say that there are so many creative chefs now in Hawaii who are very interested in finding the right wines for their food. Our German wines, for example, do very well here and some of the lighter Italian wines as well. And Hawaii is a market driven by restaurants," she said.

The wholesale market for still wine and sparkling wine in 1997 dollars was a bit over $71.5 million (see Chart) and volume has grown slightly since 1995.

Larry Walker

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In keeping with the rise of Hawaiian regional cuisine, Hawaiian Airlines launched its first class wine selection program last year. The wines are selected by Master Sommelier Chuck Furuya, who designed the program to offer first class passengers a selection of quality wine to match the award-winning food.

"Our first class customers have come to associate their inflight experience with fine dining. Adding wines enhances that experience and makes it more complete," said Blaine Miyasato, senior director of inflight services and catering for the airline.

"My first concern," said Furuya, who is the president of the family-owned Fine Wine Imparts in Honolulu, "was to bring the level of wine to the level of the food." Furuya added that he also wanted the wine to be compatible with the flavors of the new Hawaiian cuisine.

"The airline has definitely done a more creative menu featuring the flavors of Hawaii and the Pacific Rim. I did not want to put a blockbuster Cabernet or an oaky Chardonnay on the list. I looked for wines that would be compatible," he said.

Fine Wine Importers has a list of small estate wineries from around the world, not just California wines. "I think you could call them boutique."

For his opening list, he chose an Edmeades Chardonnay, a Black Sheep Zinfandel and the Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Riesling. "The Zinfandel may have been a little too dramatic for same of the passengers," Furuya said. "I have replaced it with a Sangiovese from Vita Nova. I think it has the acidity to match well with the food," he added. "I like the Chardonnay because it is very elegant, very tightly wound with good acidity."