Is Austria going red?

Wines & Vines, May, 2005 by Rudi Graeter

Yes, with a vengeance. Vanguard winemakers are grappling to create a distinct Austrian style, while global influences abound. Although Bordeaux varieties are increasingly important, winemakers rely largely on the ancient central European varieties Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent, and their relatively recent crossing, the now ubiquitous Zweigelt.

Where is this red wine revolution taking place? The Pannonian Plain reaches west as far as Vienna, while its bulk lies in Hungary. This plain has a continental climate, bringing with it hot, dry summers that impact the vineyards of Burgenland on Hungary's border and the appellations Carnuntum and Thermenregion, near Vienna.

My tasting tour began in Burgenland. Northern Burgenland is only a 20-minute ride from Vienna. This is a land of rolling hills, often capped with vineyards. The Neusiedlersee, a large, shallow lake, dominates the area. The vineyards on its northern and eastern shores carry the appellation Neusiedlersee.

In tradition-bound Austria, the estate of Gernot and Heike Heinrich in Gols, with its state-of the-art winery, cutting edge architecture and stylish tasting room, showcases the outlook of a new generation. While architecture and technology are international, the Heinrichs rely as much on indigenous grapes as do other local producers.

The varietal bottlings were absolutely true to character. An '03 St. Laurent (14 euros) revealed its kinship with Pinot. The real Pinot Noir ('02) was a standout (27 euros).

Most red blends in Austria are leaning toward an international style (i.e. fruit-forward wines, aged in barriques). These blends usually up the ante, and vintners use indigenous grapes in concert with international varieties. Old vines and new oak lend them concentration and complexity.

Heinrich produces three blends that fit this model admirably: Pannobile and Gabarinza use mostly Zweigelt, while the top cuvee, Salzberg, is Merlot-based. They are priced between 19 and 45 euros.

Weingut Josef Pockl could serve as a poster child for Austria's lightning advance into the top ranks of red wine producers. Amazingly, Josef Pockl began using malolactic fermentation and new oak as recently as 1989, and already earned accolades at home and abroad by the mid-1990s.

The Baroque church of Frauenkirchen graces the label of Weingut Josef Umathum. This modern winery reflects the owner's passion for his locale. The new barrel room with its steeply pitched roof and exposed wood beams evokes an ancient church. Cask samples of the '02 and '03 wines were very impressive.

The picturesque town of Rust, on the western shore of Lake Neusiedl, is the center of the Neusiedlersee-Hugelland appellation. Rust once owed its wealth to the Ruster Ausbruch, an ambrosia akin to Tokay. Ausbruch is being revived, but the appellation has also made major strides with its red wines.

In 1986 Ernst Triebaumer, a Rust vintner, produced a Blaufrankisch from the cru Mariental that is considered a milestone of modern Austrian viticulture. Since then, he has gone from strength to strength.

Michael Wenzel comes from a long line of Rust vintners, and his father was instrumental in the Ausbruch revival. Wenzel's international experience predisposed him to elevate the estate's reds as well. He emphasizes Pinot Noir, and the '02 vintage (a mere 9 euros) shows his mettle.

Tucked away in the village of Grosshoflein, the modest facade of Weingut Kollwentz-Romerhof hides a grand estate, headed by the genial Anton Kollwentz, one of the outstanding innovators among Austrian winemakers. The plain exterior harbors a winery that fuses the traditional and the ultra-modern ingeniously, which equally applies to the wines. They are now made by son Andi, whose resume includes stints in Bordeaux (Palmer) and in New World wineries.

The reds are mostly recruited from Zweigelt (ZW) and Blaufrankisch (BF), except for a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon (CS), and the top blend, Steinzeiler (BF, CS, ZW). The last two have amazing concentration and the structure and fruit to age gracefully.

The final leg of my Burgenland wine tour, Mittelburgenland, took me into the heart of Austrian red wine country. Some 70% of all vineyards here are planted with red varieties. Heavy, deep soils, capable of superior water storage during hot, dry summers, dominate in this appellation. Leading producers rely on old vines, some going back to the 1920s.

At Rotweingut Iby in Horitschon, Anton Iby has built a modern winery with all the bells and whistles. His son, Anton Markus, studied enology and then worked in California and Spain. He is now in charge of winemaking. The wines of Pomerol (i.e., approachable when young, yet age-worthy), coming from heavy soils not unlike those of Mittelburgenland, are his role model, although he relies largely on the native Blaufrankisch variety.

Most red wines that I had encountered en route were quite impressive, but some were less than inspiring, showing high levels of tannins, but lacking the commensurate amount of fruit. I asked Iby to comment.