Is Austria going red?

Wines & Vines, May, 2005 by Rudi Graeter

"I think such wines come from vintners who have yet to grasp that must weight is only one factor that determines ripeness. We look for signs of physiological maturity that the vine and the fruit exhibit before we harvest," he answered.

Another leading grower in Mittelburgenland is Paul Kerschbaum. Bordeaux varieties appear in his top blends. The 2000 Kerschbaum (60% Merlot, 20% CS, 20% BF) is an absolute stunner.

The reds of the Weingut Familie Gesellmann in Deutschkreutz rank with the top Austrian producers. The gregarious Engelbert Gesellmann was an early champion of Bordeaux varieties and new barriques. Son Albert trained at Cuvaison in California and in Stellenbosch, South Africa.

"We strive to have good fruit and balance in our wines and they should reflect their terroirs," is Albert's credo. There is astounding consistency throughout the entire portfolio.

Sparks began to fly with the '02 Blaufrankisch Creitzer, (11 euros). The '01 Pinot Noir Siglos has a gorgeous nose, elegant structure, and persistent length (15 euros).

The Gesellmanns' top blend is the G. It is sourced from ancient vines, and the 2000 version (90% BF, 10% St. Laurent) has all the hallmarks of a world class wine: fruit, balance, structure, complexity, finesse, and superb length (37 euros).

Carnuntum and Thermenregion, the appellations near Vienna, also benefit from the hot and dry summers of the Pannonian Plain. Gerhard Markowitsch of Gottlesbrunn in Carnuntum produces wines that are absolutely delicious, but they also have the extra dimension that renders profound wines. For a paltry 10 euros, he offers a concentrated '02 Zweigelt (Rubin Carnuntum) with very good length and silky texture. The '03 Pinot Noir Reserve is amazing.

Markowitsch assembles three blends: Redmont (ZW, CS, Syrah), Rosenberg (ZW, M, CS), and M 1 (ZW/M). The barrel sample of the '03 Redmont was sleek, elegant, and approachable. The '02 Rosenberg has a fantastic bouquet of crushed berries, is perfectly balanced, finishes with great length and has real aging potential. Barrel samples of the '02 M 1 and '03 M 1 were very impressive.

"Taste the wines of the world with an open mind. It teaches you what good wine should be like. I make wines which I enjoy and I am happy that others agree," Markowitsch says.

Weingut Walter Glatzer is another important estate of the Carnuntum appellation. Glatzer's '03 Zweigelt "Dornenvogel," priced at 11 euros, is a steal. The wine smells of blackberry and smoke, impresses with good concentration and structure and has a very long finish. The '02 St. Laurent "Altenberg" (15 euros) is amazingly concentrated, well-structured and its finish is remarkable.

South Of Vienna

The Thermenregion south of Vienna is Austria's appellation with the oldest tradition of producing outstanding red and white wines. Its potential was squandered in the modern era. Signs of a renaissance abound. Vintners like Johann Stadlmann are crafting gorgeous whites from indigenous varieties. Frau Stadlmann recommended two local red wine talents.