Wines by the block narrowing the vineyard marketing field

Wines & Vines, August, 2005 by Deborah Grossman

Once upon a time, vineyard-designated wines were the radical newbies on the American wine scene.

Now, more wines carry the block name on their label, as increasingly picky vintners showcase the most prized parcels of their vineyards.

Winegrower George Hendry has labeled most of his wine by the block since he began bottling estate Napa Valley Hendry Ranch wines in 1995. "We think where the grapes are grown is very important to the kind of wine we make. Since the block is the basic management unit for farming grapes, we communicate this on our label to our customers," Hendry says.

But as consumers become familiar with Block 7 Zinfandel and Block 8 Cabernet Sauvignon, Hendry addresses the common question, "Why blocks?" on the winery's Web site:

"Each of the 49 blocks at the ranch is a product of our efforts to discover the vineyard's full potential. Soil type, exposure, clone and rootstock are all variables that determine block boundaries. By dividing the vineyard as we do, we are able to study the interactions of these factors, and learn how they influence fruit composition and wine quality."

Yet there is no consensus as to what constitutes a block. Some vintners differentiate by grape variety or soil and clone. Nor is there a government edict on the amount of grapes that must be sourced from a particular block to be named on the label.

What is clear is the common strategy and passion of winemakers who label by the block--link the wine in the bottle to the grapes on the vine. Highlighting the block enables the vintner to story-tell the origin of the grapes. From educating consumers who don't understand blocks to the constraints of winemaking by the block, vintners monitor the practical challenges of this labeling style.

Groth Vineyards and Winery in Oakville, Calif. does not currently label wine by the block. But you can click on a map of vineyard blocks on the Web site grothwines.com, view a photo of the block and identify its soil type and clone. "We want our consumers to recognize the priority we place on where and how our grapes are grown," says Suzanne Groth, marketing manager.

Small Lot Production

For Tom Gamble, co-owner of Origin-Napa of St. Helena, Calif., labeling 2002 Sauvignon Blanc Heart Block was an easy decision. Gamble recognized the distinct marketing advantage of isolating the 150 cases of wine produced from Heart block, four flat, uniform rows in the center of Gamble Vineyard in Yountville.

"We farmed these Sauvignon Blanc rows as if they were Cabernet Sauvignon, using the techniques of shoot and cluster thinning. The wine shows soft tannins and a broad spectrum of flavors including honey, marmalade, mango and treacle supported by a core of minerals and acidity--and it should age well," Gamble says.

Due to the labor-intensive viticulture and high quality of the finished product, he priced Heart Block higher than Gamble Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc.

"Consumers are beginning to understand what small lot production is. People buying a $60 bottle of white wine are generally well versed in farming practices, while those buying $28 bottles are graduating in the learning curve and eager to taste and learn the differences," Gamble says.

Production of wines by the block is limited by the size of the parcel. As Hendry observes, "You aren't going to make 100,000 cases from one block." But vinifying by the block enables Hendry to highlight the unique differences between the 2,000 case production of Block 7 and the 1,300 cases of Block 28 Zinfandel.

"Based on terroir and its higher elevation, I expected Block 7 to be the heavier wine. But genetic type trumped terroir. Block 28 is almost Cabernet Sauvignon-like, pairing well with rich food, while Block 7 is a prettier wine with more red fruit, lighter on the palate and more versatile with food pairing," Hendry says.

Geyser Peak Winery of Geyserville, Calif. launched its Block Collection wines in 2000. Associate winemaker Chris Munsell describes the genesis of the label: "Our vineyard-designated wines were already vinified by block. During the classification process, we recognized that some blocks displayed superior quality, and we designated these small lot wines for the Block Collection."

Out of a total production of 267,000 cases, the Block Collection comprises only 4,300 cases. Block Collection wines, such as 2001 Shorenstein Vineyard Merlot, sell for $30 compared to the Reserve Merlot, priced at $47.

Naming wines by small parcels is not new, Hendry comments, referring to the Cote d'Or Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, where production is low and prices high. Hendry points out that Burgundy grows mostly Pinot Noir, the grape most susceptible to variations in clones and terroir. Hendry is continually surprised by the outcome from his own Pinot Noir, grown in three separate blocks.

The Row Eleven wine company has four labels, including Row Eleven Pinot Noir. According to Richard de los Reyes, founder and winemaker, the brand name refers to the Pinot Noir grapes he selected for the first release of the wine from row 11 of Q block of the Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley appellation.