Petite Sirah the mystery uncovered

Wines & Vines, Sept, 2000 by Dennis Fife

So we now know that Petite Sirah in America began as merely another name for Syrah. Later it became merely another name for Durif. But, for most of its history it was used interchangeably for Syrah, Durif or mixed blocks of dark red varieties primarily used in premium red blends. Finally, we know that today Petite Sirah has been shown to be primarily Durif, a cross of Syrah and Peloursin--both of which are from the Rhone and Provence. (Ironically, the BATF does not accept Petite Sirah as a synonym for Durif, but this may well change based on the current research results. Or perhaps in America we should just continue the 100 year history of defining Petite Sirah by the category of wines it makes.)

2. The history of Petite Sirah in America. [2]

The story of Petite Sirah in America starts in the Rhone Valley with Syrah. Galet, in his well known book, "A Practical Ampelography" (translated by Lucie Morton into English), states that historically in France the grape now often referred to as "true Syrah" was referred to as Syrah, Schiras, Sirac, Syrac, Sirah, Petite Sirah, Petite Syrah, Hignin noir, Entournerien, Serine, and Serenne. [3] With this many synonyms, it is not surprising that there has been much confusion about the history of Syrah and Petite Sirah in France and that this confusion carried over to America. Another established scientist, Valet, wrote that in the late 19th century, winegrowers were convinced that there was a "petite" Syrah (today we would call this a clone) prevalent around Hermitage and Cote Rotie and that this grape was better than the "grosse" Syrah (clone) elsewhere. Thus began the search for the more noble "petite" Syrah when replanting. At this same time in other parts of the Rhone Valley, the name Petite Syrah (or Petite Sirah) began being used as a synonym for the new plantings of Durif. That this caused confusion is not surprising. Since this was exactly the time that Syrah was first brought to California from the Rhone, clearly vintners looking for the superior "petite" Syrah ended up with Petite Syrab.

In his recent book, Charles Sullivan states that the first "true Syrah" came to California in the Napa Valley in 1878. He explains that it was called petite Syrah for the small berries and very low yields. According to Sullivan, in these early days several Napa Valley vintners made good wines from "true" Syrah... but it was never popular.

Sullivan states that the first evidence of a name confusion in California started a few years later when one of the first Napa Valley Syrah growers, McIver, also imported Durif in 1884. "He soon was calling the wine Petite Sirah." Thus, only a few years after the first Syrah was planted in California, it was joined by Petite Sirah in one of the same vineyards. According to Sullivan, "Crabb (another Syrah grower at the time), visited McIver and then commented in the industry press on the confusion. He did like the Durif for its color and vinosity, but didn't see why it should be called Sirah".


 

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