Looking backward into the future

Wines & Vines, Feb, 1991 by Al Cribari

The major headline in the February, 1921 issue was, "New Grape Acreage During February, thousands of acres will be planted. " The cause? "The tremendous prices realized for grapes last fall," i.e., growers got rich last (1920) harvest ! Two prominent names popped-up in this article; one, the Earl Fruit Co. (who plan to "set out" 5,000 acres in grapes) and two, Herbert H. Hoover, ex-U.S. Food Administrator and future president. He and a partner purchased 2,500 acres in Kern Co. for vines, tree fruit and cotton.

Strange to think that this war hero (for feeding the allies), would, in 10 short years, become one of the most hated men in the U.S.

Even though Treasury was de facto permitting the production of 200 gallons of wine annually by the head of the household, the same Dept. was going to crack down on home brewers. For some strange reason, there never was any official tolerance for home production of malt products. Indeed, as I recall, such brewing was still illegal up until about 1970 or so. Cider, for political reasons, (the farm vote was crucial to the Dry cause - and American farmers grew apples, not grapes!) was al Ways specifically allowed but it took something called "a special mimeograph eighty-four to internal revenue laws" (yes, I am quoting correctly) to allow home production of the said two hundred gallons of wine, and then the head of the family had to obtain a permit.

This issue also has a report of the famous San Gabriel Mission grapevine. "It covers nearly 5,000 square feet, and (the trunk) is over five feet in circumference. " That would be over 200 feet in all directions. I believe it finally died about World War 11. The Drys were at it again, despite the fact that such California prohibition as championed in the Harris Act had been soundly defeated in 1914, 1916, 1918 and 1920.

But that was (and is) the way with the Drys: there were many fanatics among them (as there were among the wets). They had the bone in their teeth and were not about to lose an opportunity to slam another saloon door. This was essentially a rural movement and the people tended to see things as black or white. The Drys were also perceived as more or less anti-city, anti-foreign, anti-Catholic, anti-Italian, anti-Jewish, etc., etc. Or so my family thought ! In many respects, the foods and beverages that we now have available in abundance are far safer than what we had in the 20s and they, in turn, were a great improvement over the stuff available at the start of the century. Furthermore, we in the industry should take all the credit we can for being in the forefront of this pure food movement. I don't think it is an exaggeration to say that, after Repeal, we had about as strict a set of laws regarding purity and safety of our product as anyone anywhere. As an example, we had tamper-proof seals before any one else in the food or drug business, as far as I can remember.

The February, 1941 issue had an interesting article, "First Answer to Varietal Names" by a Carl Bundschu. I do not recall Mr. Bundschu but no doubt he was one of the biggies of the industry at that time. (Since then he has been identified to me as the G.M. for John Daniel's Inglenook Winery). His main thrust was that the industry was not ready for the change and, even if it were, the consumer (whom he calls by the peculiar title "Mrs. P. D. Q. Public") was not. In so far as he goes, he was correct, but then he went on to try to justify the difference between California Dry Sauterne and California Chablis. Well, anyway, he was not sarcastic or completely inept-just a bit bumbling and all has come to pass. Besides, I think he represented the thinking of most of the industry at that time.

To me, at least, it was very interesting to see a Napa Valley premium winery arguing against varietals and in favor of generics. Times do change.

NOSTALGIA - Big advertising pushes were announced by such old-time names as Italian Vineyards (whose brands are now owned by Guild) and Cameo Vineyards (ditto). Also articles on Bear Creek Vineyard Assn. (ditto) and Roma (ditto). Except for Gallo, I guess, the surviving wineries have quite a collection of brands.

Also it was about this time that the Prohibition Party in California was fighting for its political life. It was - as I recall composed of little old ladies and elderly ministers. As such they received a very sympathetic and respectful ear from the legislature - and rightly so in my judgment. These people had seen the worst that alcohol abuse could deliver at that time and place, i. e., rural saloons. What defeated them was their unscientific approach and their absolute demand for nothing less than total abstinence for the whole country. Furthermore, their reliance upon the evangelical branches of the Protestant religions, almost complete damnation of city dwellers and alienation of the Jewish, Roman Catholic, Orthodox, Episcopalian and Lutheran sects (but I do think the Lutherans were split between the north German drys and the south German wets) began to hurt their cause.