Health issues

Wines & Vines, March, 1993 by Elisabeth Holmgren

For the first time in modern nutrition history, a new set of scientifically-produced dietary guidelines includes wine. The recommendation for moderate wine consumption is part of a new Mediterranean Diet food pyramid produced by Harvard University's School of Public Health. Harvard scientists presented the pyramid at a recent four-day conference in Cambridge, Mass. on the Mediterranean diet cosponsored by Harvard's School of Public Health and the Oldways Preservation Trust and Exchange. The pyramid is intended to stimulate discussion among medical, nutrition and public health policy leaders.

"Wine consumption is optional, but can't be forgotten as an important part of the Mediterranean diet. Almost certainly moderate wine consumption is important contributor to the low risk of coronary heart disease in that population," said Walter Willett, M.D., chairman of the School of Public Health's Department of Nutrition and conference co-chair. Dr. Willett presented the new pyramid to the over 350 health, nutrition and culinary experts who attended the conference.

The Mediterranean diet pyramid presented by Dr. Willett differs in important ways from the USDA pyramid, reflecting the apparent chronic-disease inhibiting character of the dietary patterns of Crete, southern Italy and other parts of the Mediterranean until the 1960s, when the diets of those regions began the slow but steady process of Americanization (according to a recent New York Times article there are over 250 McDonald's restaurants in France). The graphic pyramid illustrates the likely healthfulness of more substantial shifts towards plant-based foods--fruits, vegetables, legumes and grains--than is called for by the USDA pyramid, and the advisability of limiting consumption of red meat to a few times per month. It further suggests that in adopting a Mediterranean-style diet, olive oil should replace--and not be added to--other existing fats. The reference to a glass of wine in the graphic reflects a growing consensus that moderate wine consumption can enhance health.

While wine is not part of the foods layered into the pyramid, a glass of wine is positioned next to the pyramid on one side, a graphic of an exercising figure is on the other side. Breads and grains, including pasta, rice, couscous, polenta and bulgur form the broad base of the pyramid while sweets and lean red meat occupy the smallest sections at the top.

The footnote for the glass of wine on the guidelines states, "Following Mediterranean tradition, wine can be enjoyed in moderation (1-2 glasses per day) primarily with meals; it should be considered optional and avoided whenever consumption would put the individual or others at risk."

Surprisingly, the wine recommendation did not prove to be controversial at the conference. Even Marion Nestle, Ph.D., who chairs the Department of Nutrition at New York University and co-chaired the conference, acknowledged her belief in the potential benefits of moderate wine consumption. Dr. Nestle at one time had raised questions concerning the scientific validity of the French Paradox. At the conference however, she noted that the majority of Americans who drink wine are moderate and responsible.

Wine gets a favored status in Mediterranean dining because of reported evidence that it can raise high-density lipoprotein, or good cholesterol, and decrease the tendency of blood platelets to stick together, thus diminishing the odds of an occluding clot. U.S. guidelines recommend no more than one to two glasses a day. Dimitrios Trichopoulos, chairman of the Department of Epidemiology of the Harvard School of Public Health and a conference co-chair sees no harm in three glasses.

"Wine is a custom during meals in some Mediterranean countries," Dr. Trichopoulos said. "Drunk in moderation with meals, it reduces the risk of coronary disease about as much as the regular taking of aspirin."

Dr Trichopoulos was a key speaker at a Wine Institute-sponsored media seminar in Washington D.C. last month. The event was one of several celebrating National Wine Appreciation Week, authorized by Congressional resolution and signed by the President.

As part of a program entitled, "Americas Debate on Wine, Health and the Pursuit of Happiness," Dr. Trichopoulos further discussed the findings on the potential health benefits of wine, as presented at the International Conference on the Diets of the Mediterranean. Joining him was Lionel Tiger, Ph.D., Charles Darwin Professor of Anthropology at Rutgers University and author of the popular book, "The Pursuit of Pleasure." Dr. Tiger presented his point of view on the current alcohol policy debate. He addressed the potential negative effects of the new Puritanism and unnecessary government interference into personal decisions.

(Elisabeth Holmgren is the Director of the Research and Education department at Wine Institute.)