PUTTING ON the glitz

Bobbin, Sept, 2000 by Raye Rudie

Embellishments are driving a new era of opulence that is taking its queues from the 1980s.

After seasons of minimalism during which "less was more," fashion in the new millennium is now reflecting the opulence of the 1980s. And glitz is back, with jewels and the color gold making a big splash. This trend has translated into the use of apparel trimmings of all types - including beads, crystals, rhinestones, sequins and studs - and even a resurgence in buttons.

"We've had about five years of minimalism, but embellishment started two years ago in Paris when Gucci showed a pair of beaded fringed pants," observes Irwin Wieser, national sales manager of Swarovski Crystal, which reports that it currently makes 80 percent of the crystals used in apparel.

Crystals: Evening Gowns to Activewear

This new round of embellishment is not confined to evening gowns and bridal wear, but is going into all areas of apparel, including activewear and sportswear. For example, Wieser notes that Ralph Lauren's latest lines include a ski jacket with more than 5,000 crystals and jeans with 2,000 crystals. Leaders in shoe design, such as Jimmy Choo and Stuart Weitzman, also are using crystal rhinestone chains and crystal metal mesh in shoes, and Fendi is featuring small crystal mesh handbags.

Some of the best-moving items at Swarovski are stone heat transfer patterns featuring animal shapes and insects. These are going into T-shirts, skirts and denim wear. The company's newest product - which has been featured by In Style Magazine - is adhesive-backed stone body jewelry that will stay on for 48 hours. Other hot items include rhinestone zippers and stone appliques in flower designs.

Designers also are returning to buttons, which were replaced with zippers and Velcro during minimalist fashion trends. "Since Versace used crystal buttons, everyone wants them in different colors," Wieser says, adding that dresses covered with crystals by Gucci and Celine also have created a demand. "It triggers down to the consumer [usually] with less stones, [and] sometimes mixed with metallic elements for a more affordable look," he notes.

To meet the increasing demand, Swarovski now has "Creative Service Centers" in New York, NY; Austria; Milan, Italy; Paris, France; and Delhi, India. These centers, which allow designers to bring in their own fabrics for inspiration, offer the company's entire product line of 150,000 shaped crystals.

New Dimensions in Sequins

Meadowbrook Inventions Inc. has created a new type of sequin that contains 120 layers of luminescent material that are sandwiched to reflect and refract light. This product is available in different colors and, according to vice president Roberta Ruschmann, the company can mix all different types and colors of sequins on a single strand in random or predetermined patterns.

Meadowbrook Inventions -- which currently is selling in Mexico, Brazil and other Latin American countries -- also has patented a new type of single-row "slung" sequin with stretch. The sophisticated rhinestone-like edging can be easily applied to stretch fabrics with a simple zigzag sewing machine. After sewing, the thread completely disappears under the sequins. Additionally, the company holds a patent for iron-on "slung" sequins, which Ruschmann says are resistant to chlorine and can be washed, dry cleaned and even ironed, making them applicable for swimwear and intimate apparel.

"Following the understated look, there has been an interest in heavy allover sequins, which indicates a major shift toward glitz -- from the top houses in Paris to [the ready-to-wear market]," says Jeffrey Gladstone, director of marketing at Sequins International Inc. He notes that tube tops in ombred sequins currently are hot, and both U.S. and Italian manufacturers are using them as accessories.

Fringe combined with sequins also is attracting interest and comes in several versions, including rayon and pelouche, a feathery, hairy yam. Moreover, narrow novelty sequin trimmings are popular, and sequin "slungs," braids of flat sequins, are being sampled heavily in all areas -- from intimate apparel to evening wear to sportswear.

Raymond Hill, vice president of Sequins of Distinction, reports that since last year sales are up in the categories of sequin trimmings and embroidered sequin fabrics that can be cut into strips. The company offers a range of sequin trimmings from 2 inches to 9 inches and specializes in custom work, such as creating patterns and combining sequins with embroidery.

"We supply couture houses in Europe, Japan and around the world, including in Latin America -- which represents the largest growth area for our business," says Hill.

Color, Special Effects -- From A to Z

Whether it's fringe, ribbons or buttons, the newest embellishments and closures on the market are available in a wide variety of colors and finishes. Suppliers also are combining different trims for new, opulent looks. Following is a roundup of some of the industry's best sellers.