Pre-Production

Bobbin, Dec, 1999 by Lisa C. Rabon, Claudia Deaton

Laying the Cornerstones of Mass Customization

Pre-production software vendors are at the lead of the pack in creating an integrated information technology infrastructure to support mass customization and facilitate global sourcing networks.

In the wake of continued globalization in the apparel industry, supply chain integration and innovative Internet-based information management products made pre-production headlines at this year's Bobbin Americas. Amid this environment, e-commerce was a key driver in both the business-to-business and direct-to-consumer arenas, while mass customization graduated from technology buzz to mainstream business thinking.

Body scanning, in particular, was one of the hottest mass customization topics at the show, and "Application of Body Scanning Technology," a presentation sponsored by the Textile/Clothing Technology Corp. [[TC].sup.2], attracted one of the largest seminar crowds -- almost 100 people. According to presenter David Bruner, R&D manager at [[TC].sup.2], many of the attendees, who represented a broad base of U.S. and international manufacturers, vendors and educators, were interested in the use of body scanning for custom clothing development in an e-commerce environment. The technology also has applications in size prediction and size surveys, Bruner noted.

At the show, [[TC].sup.2] was promoting its commercial body scanner, which uses cameras to collect more than 100,000 points of measurement data in approximately 15 seconds. (For more on the [[TC].sup.2] body scanner, see "[[TC].sup.2]: Leading the Way in Changing Times," Bobbin, October 1999.) East- man Machine Co. also offered body scanning technology through a partnership with TELMAT and ScanVec Garment Systems.

The latter offering, an excellent example of a mass customization module, combines TELMAT's SYMCAD Turbo Flash 3-D body scanner and CAD system, ScanVec's [OptiTex.sup.TM] pattern design and custom fit software and Eastman's numerically controlled single-ply cutting system. Following a booth scanning process that takes only about a second, SYMCAD creates a 3D image of an individual's body shape from 70 different measurements. ScanVec's [OptiTex.sup.TM] software then uses the measurement information to modify a pattern and create a cut file that is sent directly to the Eastman cutter. (SYMCAD's software also can automatically compare a customer's unique sizing information to standard size tables in the system or export data for use with other CAD programs.)

Robert L Stevenson, president and CEO of Eastman, added that the SYMCAD system can be used to create customer profile databases, which can be analyzed to improve inventory levels as well as to fine-tune the fit of off-the-rack garments. In addition, measurement information can be stored on "smart cards," which provide individual customers with an easy way to provide measurements to mass customization retailers/manufacturers.

According to many industry observers at Bobbin Americas, the long-term success of mass customization programs will hinge on front-end integration and automation. For example, data must flow seamlessly from body scanning through pattern alteration and cutting to minimize data integrity problems. And to handle mass customization volume in a quick-turn environment (the current goal for many companies is three weeks or less from receipt of order to delivery), automation is imperative to trim cycle times.

Built-in Intelligence

On the CAD front, many vendors at Bobbin Americas were focused on tightening cycle times by automating the pattern through marker making processes. Gerber Technology Inc. was in the forefront with the introduction of the Expert Edition of its Pattern Design 2000 software, which simplifies many design and grading functions by allowing pattern makers to design and edit entire garments rather than individual pieces. Automated features of the system include an armhole/sleeve cap function that allows users to simultaneously modify a sleeve cap and armhole; a parallel slash and spread function that adds or removes fullness from a group of pieces; and a reshape curve function that can change the shape of a curved seam divided across multiple pieces.

Taking automated pattern making to the next level, Gerber also announced that it is offering the APDS-3D pattern visualization software on its AccuMark systems. Licensed by Gerber through developer Asahi Chemical Industry Co. Ltd., Tokyo, Japan, APDS-3D is a virtual draping and sample program that can transfer a 2-D flat pattern to a virtual 3-D dress form. The program also integrates pattern making and grading with 3-D visualization. For example, one can quickly drape a flat pattern on the dress form and then easily modify the graded pattern in 3-D.

APDS-3D can import fabric designs from Gerber's Artworks [Studio.sup.TM] program and simulate fabric hand values using the Kawabata fabric draping system. It is also possible to create a dress form from actual customer body measurements. Hence, the system has the potential to reduce the time that it takes to modify designs in a mass customization environment.