California's textile industry thrives on quick-turn creativity

Bobbin, Sept, 1998 by Raye Rudie

California's textile industry' has grown beyond its roots as a predominantly regional supplier to become a leader in providing the latest fashion to the flourishing West Coast industry as well as the rest of the United States.

The growth of the sector began with the proliferation of garment manufacturers selling up business on the West Coast in the 1970s and 1980s. When it became apparent that East Coast textile suppliers couldn't adequately meet the West Coast industry's needs, local mills, mostly knitters, began to set up shop, later bringing in dyers, finishers and printers.

Over the years, the region's textile sector, centered in the Los Angeles, CA, area, has worked diligently to hone its creativity and just-in-time (JIT) manufacturing capabilities - which truly are the raison d'etre for the California industry, and are key in servicing the West Coast's fashion-driven market.

This level of service has been necessary to compete with the ever-present threat of fabric imports from the Asian textile industry, which continues to proliferate the market in many different fabric categories. (Commodity fabrics were the primary threat in early importing days.) For example, California's close proximity to the Asian market posed challenges during the early stages of the Asian financial crisis because the West Coast market was flooded with cheap finished product, which impacted local manufacturers' ability to compete. However, some California textile makers report that business is getting back to normal because more Asian manufacturers are now encountering financing problems as a result of the crisis.

Interestingly, while it provides stiff competition, the Asian textile industry also has played a role in the growth of the West Coast fabric community. While in the late 1980s and early 1990s, Asian importers were offering the market "enormous inventories for quick deliveries," notes Robert E. Berg, executive director of the Textile Association of Los Angeles (TALA), many of these importers have since evolved into converters and knitters producing on California soil.

From the state's premier knitters and converters to the latest importers to set up U.S. operations, Bobbin contacted a variety of the key textile players based in Los Angeles and its surrounding areas. Here's what they had to say about their markets, competitive advantages and fashion directions for future seasons.

Kronfli Spundale Mills: Custom Fabric Engineering

Kronfli Spundale Mills, a 21-year-old knitter, dyer and finisher employing more than 500, counts manufacturers of private label goods, sportswear and activewear among its customers. Its offerings range from technical performance fabrics to basic knits to novelties such as meshes, crepes and terries.

The firm's competitive edge? "We're fabric engineers," says Scott Shepard, operations manager. "We work closely with customers who ask us to develop fabrics especially for them."

He notes that the company constantly is developing fabrics that incorporate the latest fibers and technology. In addition to spandex, Kronfli Spundale's fabrics use a variety of polyester and nylon micro fibers as well as Cordura[R] nylon, MicroSupreme[TM] acrylic, polypropylene and EcoSpun[TM] polyester. The company also offers moisture management processes, including its K-Wick[TM] technology, which can be used with its various fabrics.

Shara-Tex: Adding Juice to Juniors

Shara-Tex, one of the first West Coast producers of rayon/Lycra spandex knits, has expanded from its roots in converting to become a 40-machine, 100-employee knitter as well.

The 12-year-old firm's thrust in California includes the juniors and contemporary markets as well as men's wear, while it targets the better women's wear market in New York. In April, Shara-Tex established a new division, Knit Innovations, which is gearing its prices and product releases specifically to the juniors market. Elizabeth Gogola, merchandiser, explains that new items - including lots of pattern and color work in acrylic/Lycra and cotton/Lycra blends - constantly are being introduced through the new division.

For spring, Shara-Tex has expanded its offerings to include new Tencel[R]/Lycra fiber blends, which will go forward for fall in heavier stitches with a sweater look. The company expects to see a return to cotton with more pointelles and feminine looks. "In the synthetic area, we feel strongly about Tactel[R] nylon for a smooth, cool hand as well as Meryl nylon, which has a matte look, and acetate," Gogola says, adding that most of these fibers will be blended with Lycra.

Texollini Inc.: New Strength in Branded Synthetics

Texollini Inc., a privately held firm, was founded in 1989 as a knitter and added printing, dyeing and finishing in 1993. The company has steadily grown to become the largest knitting mill specializing in bare Lycra textiles west of the Mississippi River. Its core circular knit fabrics are sold to swimwear sportswear, intimate apparel, lounge wear and performance activewear markets across all price points.