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Splendor at sea: the Queen Mary 2 evokes the golden age of timeless and luxurious transatlantic travel

Chief Executive, The, July, 2004 by Everett Potter

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For us, the sea itself was the tonic. By North Atlantic standards, we had a peaceful crossing. The rolling waves, giant swells that gently lift the ship, were punctuated by the occasional sight of a flock of petrels or gannets, while pods of dolphins would leap beside the ship. One day, a whale spouted in the distance. If you allow yourself to slow down and succumb to the rhythms of the ocean and the voyage, a crossing can be something of a spiritual recharging.

Meals aboard the QM2 are an event. The menus are overseen by the famed New York chef Daniel Boulud. On a few days, we enjoyed leisurely two-hour lunches with wine. At night, we opted for the late dinner seating at 8:30 p.m. The ship's three-story main dining room has Titanic-like splendor and proportions, with sweeping staircases made for grand entrances. Since there are Canyon Ranch Spa options at every meal, you can watch your waistline at the same time. There's also a restaurant run by the celebrity chef Todd English, when a craving for butter-poached lobster and crispy sweetbreads strikes, or you could go for Asian or Italian food in separate restaurants, or Guinness and fish and chips at the Golden Lion Pub.

Several evenings offer formal galas, for which 99 percent of the passengers put on black ties or evening gowns, eager for a chance to evoke Jazz Age glamour. You could begin the evening with a cocktail at our favorite spot, the Commodore Club, a cozy bar in the bow, or head to the Chart Room, which affords a good view of the passing parade of decked-out passengers.

After dinner, you can head to the blackjack table or the slots in the casino. Perhaps catch the Broadway-style revue in the Royal Court Theatre. There's also dancing to a live orchestra in the Queen's Room, magnificently hung with chandeliers, or disco at a nightclub. We preferred simply to stroll on the promenade deck. When the stars were visible, the inky sky was dotted with pinpoints of light. If we'd encountered Cary Grant, we wouldn't have been surprised.