From Mountainair to Moriarty, Torrance County is renewing itself

New Mexico Business Journal, Feb, 1997 by Sue Bohannan Mann

Torrance County lies at the center of New Mexico, and the sense of community gives heart to the county's estimated 12,169 citizens. Most people live in the western half of the 3, 552 acres adjacent to Bernalillo County and most live in the county out of choice. This is still real country, here in the shadows of the Albuquerque metropolis, where people know each other and very often work together on various community projects. It's very much a down-home feeling.

Susan Appleman, publisher of the Estancia Valley Citizen, prints 3,000 copies of the weekly newspaper. No national wire services are needed to announce county school enrollments climbing six percent or to review a recent reading at the Hummingbird Cafe's Live Poet Society in Mountainair.

Mountainair was discovered by Scott Sharot and his wife Dale who moved there over three years ago and opened the Hummingbird Cafe where they hold monthly poetry readings on the third Sunday of each month. The couple also helped organize last summer's garlic festival, a rousing success. Dale created garlic shaped pots, others made garlic jewelry. Plans to hold the second festival the,first week of August are under way, and Scott is publishing an eclectic cookbook for the occasion. He sees garlic as a viable crop for Torrance County because it requires less water and is easy to grow.

A Mountainair renaissance arises from the grass roots efforts of people like Sharot and Mary Schultz, who moved here from Santa Fe in 1990. President of the Cibola Arts Alliance and interior decorator, Schultz also serves as an unofficial Chamber of Commerce voice. "A few houses are for sale," she says, "but it's impossible to find a place to rent."

"When I go to state or district meetings, people ask me how we get so much done in our small community," says Schultz. Progress follows the willingness of the people here to try new ideas. And most have worked. Trees are being planted and the Main Street Program of the state's Economic Development Department is helping revitalize the town.

The 1,000 member community at the junction of U.S. 60 and NM 55 was founded in 1903. At one time Mountainair boasted that it was "The Pinto Bean Capital of the World." Today, ranching and tourism comprise the main industries. Newcomers, attracted to the scenery, climate and eclectic crafts and arts, have discovered a rich historic community not jaded with commercialism.

At the Gustin Hardware Store on Main Street (U.S. 60), ranchers can buy three bolts or a pound and get replacement meat saw blades. Cattle brands burned into wooden planks decorate the upper walls. They were registered and approved for ranchers in the area by the New Mexico Livestock Board. At least 400 bill caps snuggle like spoons on a string stretched across the ceiling. The collection grows as people come and give Larry the hats off their heads.

Gustin bought the 50-year-old hardware store in 1980 and gradually remodeled and brought it up to the present level. His wife Patty owns a flower shop next door and the gift shop and real estate office in the back, making it a family affair.

Mary Coles, who works part time at the store, enjoys her job. "To me the hardware store is a treasure," says Mary. "It's a working hardware store and has things ranchers need on a daily basis, and screws aren't sold wrapped in plastic."

Coles now owns the Rancho Bonita that she bought from descendants of Pop Shaffer. The whimsically decorated buildings, listed on the National Historic Register, have been restored. If the gates are open, visitors are welcome to drive in and enjoy Shaffer's pop art on these one-of-a-kind buildings. The ranch is located about one mile south of Main Street's blinking light.

The Salinas Visitors Center, located on Mountainair's Main Street, is open year round. Gran Quivera, located 25 miles south and Abo 10 miles west, heavily impact local business. The Spaniards and early settlers learned how to grow beans from the Indians living there in the 17th century.

Only 12 miles cast of Mountainair on U.S. 60, stands the Willard Cantina, formerly a gas station, 1930s vintage. The bar and restaurant were recently named by the Albuquerque Journal as one of the five best restaurants in the state to buy a green chile hamburger. The former railroad town of Willard has about 200 residents.

A large mural located in Estancia's County Courthouse depicts a history of the area, from early mining of valuable salt to the mission buildings, the coming of the Spaniards, the arrival of the train and the homesteaders, farming and the major highways passing through the area.

Susan Simons, of the county's Main Street program, may visit a group in Mountainair in the morning, and take her portable displays to Tajique and Torreon in the afternoon. She was successful in obtaining a "Rails to Trails" grant from the National Park Service for a pedestrian - equestrian trail that will follow a 20 mile path of railroad tracks between Estancia and Moriarty.

"I love my job," she says "but we have to be patient in getting programs set up." Simons helped publish a brochure on The Salt Missions Trails Program to seek membership to help preserve the area's many-faceted history.