Beauticians need stylized coverage

Rough Notes, May 1996 by Clapp, Wallace L Jr

As long ago as prehistoric times men and women used cosmetics and hair preparations to groom themselves and to decorate their bodies and faces. Cosmetics were used for personal use, for religious ceremonies, and to prepare deceased persons for burial. Hairdressing is a fine art, and wigs and hairdresses were worn as far back as ancient Egypt.

Greeks made lavish use of perfumes and cosmetics--in religious rites, for personal use, and for medicinal purposes. The Romans acquired many of the customs of the Greeks. They used cosmetics for facials, makeup for cheeks and lips, eyelids and eyebrows. Various formulas were used for bleaching and dyeing of hair.

Beauty culture has been practiced in every historical era in the world from the Middle Ages and Renaissance through the Victorian era and memorable eras in American history. Each decade had its distinctive hair style--the "bob" and the "marcel wave" of the '20s, platinum blondes of the '30s.

Chemical dry permanent waves were introduced in the '30s. Full service salons came into style in the '50s. In more recent decades manufacturers have introduced a variety of new products for the care and beautification of hair and skin. Each new fad dress style has its corresponding hair and skin style. Fads, such as tattooing, ear and body piercing have experienced a rebirth in the late 20th century.

Cosmetologist is a generic word that may be applied to all beauty operators. These workers are also known as hairdressers, or beauticians. Today most of the one million licensed cosmetologists in the U.S. operate in independently owned beauty salons. Others are in beauty shops connected with hotels and department stores. A few operate from clinics, health and fitness clubs, health farms, cruise liners, and their own homes. Beauty salons are usually concentrated in urban areas, but many cosmetologists find jobs in small towns and rural areas. Most salons are small, having fewer than four employees; more than half are owner-operated.

Esthetician is a word used to describe a person specializing in skin care rather than hairstyling. In many states estheticians must have a cosmetology license before specializing in skin care, facial massage, and makeup application.

The primary factor in the success or failure of nearly every salon is communication--the need to establish an effective means of understanding the clientele and discussing beauty services with them. The stylist's perception of what looks attractive to the client often is not the same as what the client feels is attractive and enhances her image. The stylist must tune to the same wave length as the client for full satisfaction. All clients are on a safari to discover the stylist who sees the same mental image that they themselves picture.

The initial consultation with a new client is the key to keeping the client. Modern salons use pictures, videos, even computers to show clients examples of cuts and permanents. A well-organized video can explain the salon's philosophy and what services it can offer.

The beautician and client mutually decide on the method of facial treatment, if needed, cost and how such treatment may be applied. Likewise, the hairdresser also may have a consultation with a client about the "right" hairstyle to enhance her other features.

It is also important that the salon provide a complete supply of retail beauty products to sell to the client--those lotions, emulsions, rinses, shampoos and cosmetics that the beautician recommends and uses in the shop. The client's home care can be equally important in the overall plan for healthy hair and skin care. In addition, sale of such products can be an important source of income for the shop.

Cosmetologists must have a basic knowledge of the threat of bacteria and microorganisms that can infect skin and hair of their clients, as well as how to care for and repair skin and hair disorders if they occur. Knowledge of the chemistry of skin and hair compounds is a key to the proper procedure in applying creams, lotions, dyes and permanent wave solutions. Common chemicals found in such mixtures include oxygen, sulphur, hydrogen, water, phosphorous, hydrogen peroxide, ammonium thioglycollate, alcohol and alkalis. Properties of these solutions should be understood so that they may be used correctly in order to avoid injury or burns, or allergic reactions.

Unless the beautician and client can ultimately agree on the final product, the salon may lose a client, and such a disgruntled client may take it out on the salon for alleged malpractice or injury.

In some cases, if after analyzing the client's skin and hair condition, the beauty operator decides that treatment will not help--or if the client does not agree with the suggestions--the operator will suggest that the client go elsewhere. One beauty salon owner whom we interviewed said that the operator who last treats a person with serious damage to hair or skin is blamed for all of the previous treatments.

Record cards are used in modern salons to describe skin classification, abnormalities and blemishes, and how the beautician plans to treat the skin. The card should also record whether the client has been treated by a dermatologist, and if the client knows of any allergies. The card should also indicate procedures and products used in the treatments, and the formula of the haircolor or dye decided upon by the beautician and client. The use of this card can be very important as a deterrent to claims from the client, when hair or skin treatments are cited as the cause of injury.